Booming lima food scene. I took a walk through this beautiful world felt the cool rain on my shoulder found something good in this beautiful world i felt the rain getting colder sha, la, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, la, la anthony im in peru with this guy, eric ripert. Eric the guy was looking at us. He went into the tree. Anthony thats funny. Chef of the worldfamous restaurant le bernardin in new york, to look at where chocolate comes from, particularly our chocolate, the very expensive, limitedrun, designer chocolate bar business that eric got me into last year. So thats why were in peru. But before we get all indiana jones, were spending some time in lima, as we like the capital city just fine. And we have, both of us, from previous trips, friends here. Lima is the cultural hub and culinary capital of a country that has exploded in the last decade with scores of worldclass chefs, cooks, and restaurants. It has long been considered to be one of the best food scenes in all of south america. Lets do it. Eric how far away is the house . Coque thats it. So, its eric over there . Coque yeah. Five minutes. Anthony one of our friends here is chef restaurateur, coque ossio. Hes one of the best, most successful chefs in the country. His family are something of a beloved culinary dynasty in peru. And pucusana, a small fishing village about an hour south of lima, is where they spend their weekends. Coques mom, marissa guiulfo, is like perus julia child marissa welcome. Anthony james beard rolled into one. Thank you for having us. A caterer, cookbook author, beloved icon of peruvian gastronomy. Coque this is the yucca. Anthony oh yeah, im going in. To say one is fortunate to enjoy her hospitality would be an understatement. Marissa pisco sour . Anthony oh yes. Yeah. Definitely. Eric id love one. Anthony warm, generous, welcoming beyond belief. Marissa its too bad that you have to leave so soon. Anthony yeah. Coque normally we we have lunch late, uh, like 5 00, or anthony do you nap before lunch or after . Coque both. Anthony both. [ laughter ] sounds like paradise. Wow, look at this. Every weekend, marissa opens the house to an everchanging mob of friends, visitors, dropins, and family. Coque this is fantastic. Anthony they do not skimp on the food. Delicious, delicious things pour out of the kitchen. Eric wow. Anthony a torrent, a deluge of traditional peruvian favorites. Marissa this is a causa with crabmeat, the yellow potato, and avocado, and we love avocado. Anthony causa de congrejo is like a tureen of crabmeat, eggs, avocado, and mashed yellow potatoes. Eric okay. Marissa this is a tiradito, ceviche from the coast. Anthony beautiful. Tiradito de pejerrey, basically raw king fish filets dressed with aji amarillo and lime juice. Perfect. Marissa and thats scallop ceviche. Coque a ceviche. Eric ceviche for sure. Anthony ceviche de conchas, fresh scallops with lemon juice, garlic and aji limon. [ coque speaking spanish ] anthony drum fish braised in chichi de jora, a cornbased beer. Eric they look fantastic, huh . Marissa this is a rocoto. Eric spicy or not . Marissa it is very spicy. Eric very spicy, okay. Anthony oh, that sounds good. Oh, and stuffed rocoto peppers filled with ground beef and raisins served with parilla cheese. Eric yeah. Anthony wow. Eric are we lucky, or what . Anthony we are lucky. And thats just the beginning. Theres so much more food, theres no way we could show it all, much less describe it. Its incredible, overwhelming, invariably fresh and delicious and thrillingly different than what im used to. Eric yeah, its fantastic. Anthony i could frankly get out of the chocolate business right now, put up a pup tent on marissas porch, and pretty much dig in for the duration. This is living. Eric thats nice. Anthony yeah. Eric those little fish are amazing. Theyre so fresh. Anthony i want to be her nextdoor neighbor. Eric its incredible. Anthony wow. Eric its so good. Anthony so, has peruvian cuisine always been this diverse and this delicious and were just discovering it, or has it changed over the last 15 years . Coque its change its changing anyway, but you know, what youre eating now, its the traditional food. Anthony theres so many products in peru that are unfamiliar to people in the states. When you eat this food, its not like, well, this is Something Like no, this, uh, its not really its not kind of like anything. Its really all its own. Marissa there is a lot of ingredients, good ingredients, all year round. Eric the rocoto is very good. Anthony what do you do when youre homesick for peruvian food, uh, in your traveling . Theres really no coque we take some always some chilies with us in the, you know, the luggage. We are the perfect, uh, smugglers. Eric i believe you. I believe you do it, man. [ laughter ] anthony i hate to say goodbye to this, but it is what it is. Things to do, places to go, wild and apparently extremely rare cacao trees to visit. Incredible meal. So happy. Marissa thank you. Anthony so happy. [ women singing in spanish ] anthony all i could say is, if people are anywhere near this nice on the rest of this trip, its going to be okay. Lima, city of kings, home to a third of perus people. Locals escape by hanging out at the beach. And why not when you can and maybe get a tattoo while youre at it. Is that sanitary . Youve been here before. Eric oh yeah, man. Anthony i take erics suggestion, and we head over to see chef javier wong, uniquely nonconformist seafood specialist, famous for his incredible and uncompromising ceviches and his flaming wok. If peru has a national dish, its probably ceviche. The freshest fish only needs the right cut, a little citrus, and no heat. Whats the most common thing that people do wrong . Eric the quality of the ingredients. You dont do a ceviche with something that is not ultra fresh. Anthony right. Eric the cut is very important, the thickness. Anthony right. Eric and when you do the ceviche, you dont do it too much ahead of time. Anthony the whole place is served whatever menu hes doing that day, same for everybody. And today, the flounder he got from the market is particularly nice, so thats what were getting. Generally thicker pieces to stand up to the spices and acids. First up, an octopus and flounder ceviche. Eric i dont know what to tell you, man. Its damn good. Anthony mm. Oh, that is good. Eric is this one very spicy, or no . Anthony you ever been spanked in your life and enjoyed it . Yeah, me neither. I dont like pain. Eric except anthony except eric if youre spanked with a pepper. Anthony brutalized with a pepper, i like. Eric oh, thats thats really hot. Anthony tiradito of flounder, dressed with pecans, lime, aji limon, and sesame oil, which, clearly, eric likes. Eric ah, this is totally going to le bernardin. Anthony oh, really . Eric yeah. Anthony yeah, i see youre not like, foraging in the catskills for your inspiration. Eric um anthony you basically just rip your ideas off of Small Businessmen . Eric javier. Es stupdendo. Javier its okay, tres bien . Eric si. Its anthony oh, superb. [ javier speaking spanish ] eric you want, uh, another little thing . Anthony sure. Eric si. [ javier speaking spanish ] anthony chinese and japanese immigrants came to peru in great numbers in the 19th and 20th centuries as contract laborers and farmers. And their influence is felt here, particularly in the food, to a greater degree than anywhere else on the continent. Its that influence, and the ingredients of amazonia and the andes, that really distinguishes the food here as something special. Whoa, what is this, a tofu . Eric uh, no, queso fresco, no . Anthony this is a very kooky combination. I mean, is that pineapple . Whered that come from thats not traditional. Eric i mean, he looks asian to me. Anthony right. Eric so i believe he is probably, uh anthony dude, his name is wong. [ eric laughs ] anthony i mean, unless hes a retired porn star this shouldnt be good, but it is. Eric phew. Anthony working up a sweat on that one. Yeah, i might have a couple more beers after this, a pisco sour, and then have a nice nap, midday nap. Patients that i see about dry mouth. They feel that they have to drink a lot of water. Medications seem to be the number one cause for dry mouth. I like to recommend biotene. It replenishes the moisture in your mouth. Biotene definitely works. [heartbeat] with the most lobster dishes lobsterfesof the yearred lobster like our classic lobster lovers dream. So hurry in lobsterfest ends april twentyfirst. And now for a limited time, get ten percent off red lobster to go. New lower price. Wow. Thats a lot of asparagus. Yeah, you said get a bunch of asparagus. Oh, you. A bunch. I. Thought you kinda. Anthony one more day in lima. The chance to delve a bit further into the cuisine before things get a little more old school. Pedro these are our special cocktails that we prepare here. It has a kind of lime that we find in the jungle. It has culantro. Anthony culantro . Eric culantro is like cilantro, uh, but its long leaves and its anthony uhhuh. Eric much more powerful in flavor. Anthony it would be wrong to not point out that peru, along with brazil, is at the forefront of a movement celebrating the incredible and unique larder of ingredients from the andes and the amazon. Flavors you find no place else on earth. There seems to be a lot of interest in the last decade in the amazon because its an amazing pedro and youre right. Anthony spectrum of entirely new to most of us, uh, flavors and ingredients. Pedro schiaffino is at the cutting edge of exactly that territory. His restaurant, amaz, explores the rivers, the ocean, the landscape of peru. Highlighting a range of products that are stunning in their diversity, and to us, anyway, their newness. Wow. Pedro this one is youve got grapefruit, tuna, and the cashew sauce. That is with, uh, plantain vinegar. Anthony mm. Pedro thats a cashew fruit. And so, the nut is a fruit, and in brazil and here, we use the as a fruit. Anthony mm. Pedro we make this, uh, scallops with, uh, wild almond. Eric the almond is very, very soft, like the flavor of it. It compliments really well. Pedro and this one is freshwater shrimp dashi made of taro root and a freshwater shrimp. Anthony mm. A whole different flavor spectrum, right . All new. Its almost like you need a new section of your tongue. Eric it must be so exciting because they are basically an amazing garden with the amazon. Anthony ooh, that looks good. Pedro this is a soup made of ham with peanuts and corn, and, uh, its called inchicapi. Anthony mm. Mm. Im liking the food. I am enjoying these cocktails, too. Cashew, uh, caipirinhas. Eric oh, were going to be wasted. Anthony yeah, well be fine. Oh, whoa. Pedro so, these are also tradition. This is called pataraschca. They season the fish, the put it on a leaf, and they cook it. The fish is catfish. In the amazon, we have, like, 200 types of catfish. Anthony takes in flavor from the leaf, too. Pedro and here we have, uh, paiche. Its the second biggest freshwater fish in the world. Underneath, you have a puree of aguaje that is a palm fruit, and the sauce is a reduction of fermented wild mandioca yucca. Eric fermented. Pedro yeah, this is, how you say, toxic or, uh anthony or poisonous, yeah. Pedro poisonous. Anthony yeah. Pedro yeah, so they let it ferment and it becomes uh, you can eat it. Anthony these fish are unbelievable when you see them. Uh, they get up to, like, 600 pounds. And theyre swimming in water no deeper than a rice paddy. Eric really . Anthony giant. Theyre like dinosaur fish. Everyone has been saying for years that peru was going to be the next big thing as far as eric yes. Anthony restaurants and eric and it is. This really proved it. Pedro and we have a chili pepper made with brazil nuts, and these are ants. Eric wow, theyre huge. Pedro they are huge ants. Eric okay. You think i should try it . Anthony yeah, yeah, totally. Youre not loving that, are you . Eric no. Lot of acid and then you ate that whole bowl of ants, and then you go home and you and, like, youre tripping and its like, 4 00 in the morning, and you turn around and you look at the toilet and like, all these ant heads floating around in there. Itd be cool. Eric yeah, it would be super cool, tony. I cant wait. [ anthony laughs ] anthony so now that weve confirmed what we already knew, that perus food is unequivocally awesome, it seems proper that we take a trip back in time to meet the forebears of this countrys rich cultural legacy. The Larco Herrera museum in lima has a massive collection of precolumbian artifacts. And, looking at them, you get an idea of what these ancient peoples were like, how they lived. Wow. I mean, this is like the real stuff. Eric i think so. Anthony wow. Eric right, i mean, its the real deal, yeah. Anthony gold necklaces. Eric thats gold, yes. Anthony you see why the spanish just freaked out when they came here, turned into like, maniacal greed heads. But history does not have to be boring. It can be sexy. I dont know whether you knew this, but i am an aficionado of early erotica of precolumbian and postcolumbian eras, you know, like pottery of people doing it . Eric yeah, i should have known that. Anthony turns out things could get pretty interesting back in the day. Oh yeah, those guys could get crazy, get wild, and apparently, very kinky. The erotic gallery. Oh. There you go. Thats a conversation starter. I take eric to the precolumbian boning section. Actually, the erotic pottery section. Slipping her the tongue. Eric amazing. Anthony which sounds about as much fun as an allnude renaissance fair, but is actually pretty cool. [ man in museum laughs ] anthony nothing new under the sun that these precolumbian horn dogs didnt think of first. Ooh, thats disturbing. A man and a chicken, hm. Eric im not sure i understand this one, tony. Anthony i think we frown on that these days. [ eric laughs ] anthony oh, wow, they theyre doing it under a blanket. This must be after the spanish arrived to teach them shame. [ eric laughs ] anthony ooh, skeletons with boners. Eric they are zombies. Anthony oh, getting a zombie oldfashioned. Eric yes, tony. I really appreciate your knowledge. Anthony i wonder whether this was decorative or whether this was early porn. Eric they probably had it in a closet somewhere or something. Anthony no, no, ill im betting this was right out on the table. Come on in, have a cup of tea, sit down. [ eric laughs ] anthony ooh, theres some animal on animal action. Thats pretty awesome. Eric uh, yeah, no, no, this is interesting. Um. Yeah. Im happy we made it, uh, here, tony. That was, uh, an enlightened moment. Anthony something about steamy, triplex, precolumbian erotica always makes me hungry. Luckily, at night, lima comes alive with the smell and the familiar enticing sound of sizzling meat. Its time for delicious, screamingly hot, garlicky, spicy, flavorjacked street meats. And as anybody who knows me is well aware, i love me some street meat. Coque the the street food in peru is starting to disappear, really disappear, yeah. Anthony really . Why . Coque because, you know, the neighbors, they anthony oh, the neighbors complain . Coque complain. Anthony our friend coque brought us to this place. [ coque speaking spanish ] anthony to dona pochita, a street stall named for the lady who runs the joint. [ coque speaking spanish ] [ anthony laughs ] anthony they specialize in one thing. Coque beef heart, anticuchos. Anthony anticuchos is quechan for skewered meat. This stuff, they say, goes back all the way to the incas and was as immediately popular with the spanish conquistadors as it is today. Ooh, that looks good. Which is to say, i must have some. Damn. Traditionally, a mix of beef hearts and other animal parts. Coque chicken hearts. Anthony yes. Coque you have a gizzards and theres tripe. Anthony right. Marinated in garlic, cumin, and onion, maybe a little vinegar. Oh yeah. Grill that up and pile it high. These are not small portions. These people are giving you mountains of food. Okay, here, were rolling up. Coque the sauce, the sauce. Lets all do a sauce, yeah. Anthony it does not get any better. Voila. Lets do it. Man, thats awesome. Coque yeah, yeah. Anthony the beef heart . Coque yeah. Anthony yeah. Mm. That is some magical right there. Coque salud. Eric salud. Anthony salud. Eric its very garlicky, the marinade. Its nice. This is what, the tripe . Dona corazon de pollo. Eric corazon de pollo, ah. Chicken heart. Anthony mm, yeah, that is seriously tasty. Eric delicioso, huh . Buonissimo. Anthony the beef heart and the chicken heart is the texture is so nice. Eric and its hot. The sauce is really hot. Coque oh yeah. Come on, wasabi, a little bit. Anthony whew. All right. Im maxed out. Really delicious. Delicioso, excellent. Theres little rest for a single dad, and back pain made it hard to sleep and get up on time. Then i found aleve pm. The only one to combine a safe sleep aid, plus the 12 hour pain relieving strength of aleve. Im back. Aleve pm for a better am. Im not really a, i thought wall street guy. Ns. Whats the hesitation . Eh, it just feels too complicated, you know . Well sure, at first, but jj can help you with that. Jj, will you break it down for this gentleman . Hey, ian. 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Its our next stop, the staging area for our trip to the mountains to find our cacao. Chocolate. I mean, we know we like the stuff. But how is it made . Where does it come from . Columbus was t