Sympathizer, a zionist tool, a selfhating jew, an apologist for american imperialism, an orientalist, socialist, fascist, cia agent and worse. So here goes nothing. I took a walk through this beautiful world, felt the cool rain on my shoulder found something good in this beautiful world i felt the rain getting colder sha, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, la i was raised without religion. One side of the family long ago, catholic i think. The other side, jewish. Ive never been in a synagogue. I dont believe in a higher power. But that doesnt make me any less jewish i dont think. These guys sandbagging me at the wailing wall, they dont seem to think so either. Man jewish, my friend. Anthony only half. Man jewish . Anthony yes, so that makes me jewish. Man so now for first time, we need you to go for bar mitzvah. Two minutes. Baruch atah you righty . Anthony im a righty, yes. Man say baruch atah anthony baruah atah Adonai ElohaynuMelech Haolam asher kidshanu bemitzvotav vetzivanu. Man vetzivanu. Anthony vetzivanu lhadlik ner man so now, youre bar mitzvahed. Mazel tov. Anthony mazel tov. Thank you gentlemen. Ive never felt so much like im masquerading as something im not. I am instinctively hostile to any kind of devotion. Uh, certainty is my enemy. You know, im all about doubt, questioning oneself and the nature of reality constantly. When they grabbed hold of me in in a totally non judgmental way essentially, you know, gods ju essentially, you know, gods happy to have you, you know here you go, oh man you know, my, my treachery is complete. Just cause i was raised outside the faith with no particular attachment or loyalty to israel doesnt mean that plenty of people on this earth dont hate me in principle. I know that. But the state of israel, i never really knew what to think. First, look around, its like everybody says. Its pretty. Its awesome. Its urban, sophisticated, hip, like southern california, only nicer. Then you see the young draftees on the streets and you start to get the idea. This is jerusalem. Yotam im taking you through damascus gate, which is one of the gates to the old city and these walls are pretty ancient. People say that the deepest go back to king david and then as history progressed, they built up the walls so that the top bit is the is the newest bit. Anthony and by newest you mean yotam i mean up to the ottoman time which the turks left here about you know about 150 years ago and the brits came and they conquered us. I wasnt here. Anthony born here, now cooking in london, Yotam Ottolenghi is the widely known, respected chef and coauthor of the book, jerusalem. Yotam basically this city was divided into two until 1967 when there was the famous six day war and the whole of the bit that were traveling in now, walking in, is east jerusalem, its the palestinian part, that was up until 67 was, belonged to jordan. So now, its under israeli control. Very controversial because for the jews, for the israelis, their citys been unified but obviously for the palestinian, theyre under occupation as far as theyre concerned. Yotam we have to go through a typical falafel place because its so much part of the culture here and again contentious because you know jews or israelis made falafel their own and everybody in the world thinks falafel is you know israeli food, but in actual fact its as much a palestinian food. Even more so because you know theyve its been done for generations here. And here you get falafel thats just been fried. You dont get it any other way. And when i go to a place like that and i see hes got a few bowls left in the bowl from the previous customer, i dont take that. I want him to fry them especially for me and that makes all the difference in the world. Anthony its a whole different animal, isnt it . So is there a historically provable answer to who invented it. Yotam who made it first . The one thing that is very clear is that is in this part of the world palestine, lebanon, syria its been cooked for many, many, many generations. On the other hand, you get like jews from yemen coming here in the 50s. Anthony right so they can say, hey, my great uncle was in syria at the time and it was him, i remember distinctly. Yotam so theres actually no answer to it but the question of food appropriation or who owns the food is massive here. They can go on arguing about it forever. The old citys divided into four quarters. There is a muslim quarter. Theres a jewish quarter. Theres a christian quarter and theres an armenian quarter. Each one functions independently, but people that live in the certain area are all from that religion. So here you see these israeli flags over this house, so basically jews have bought this house although its in the muslim quarter. Thats very controversial because it breaks the separation that people would normally expect in the city. Now were walking in the steps of jesus christ right . Anthony as i so often do. Yotam so this is via dolorosa which is the last trip jesus did before he was crucified. So, people feel very emotional. They come here and they feel like oh my god, i am walking in the steps of muhammad, david, or or jesus. Anthony its like jesus was here. I i feel like i should be more, something. Yotam a little bit more pious. Anthony a little bit . Well, its too late for me. Oh great, you can get your own crown of thorns. Yotam yeah. Anthony in answer to the question, what would jesus wear . Oh no, no, no, no. Thats just wrong. Our members shop a little differently. 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Thats why im partnering with cigna to remind you to go in for your annual checkup. And be open with your doctor about anything you feel. Physically, and emotionally. Body and mind. Anthony israel is bordered by egypt, jordan, syria, and lebanon. In 1967, after the six day war, israel took control of the gaza strip, the sinai peninsula, the west bank, the Golan Heights and annexed east jerusalem. In 2003, israel began construction on a wall along the green line representing the israeli, palestinian border. The wall now stretches 450 miles. When completed, it will span 700 miles, 85 percent of it, in palestinian territory. On one hand, theres no doubt that the number of suicide bombings fell, drastically. On the other, theres this. We cross from jerusalem, into the west bank. Also called judea and samaria, also called palestine. Since 1967, half a million settlers have moved here. All in contravention of international law. Many in contravention of israeli law, though in effect, it seems to make little difference. Theyre here, and in ever larger numbers. This is noam, one of our drivers from tel aviv, who i asked about the graffiti on this house near the settlements. Anthony so, what is price tagging . Noam if something happens in the settlement or some attack towards jews, kids from the settlements would come and have a price tag for every activity. So theyll come to a palestinian village like this and they will destroy cars. They will write on walls like this. It says, against arabs, the state of israel is alive and death to the arabs. Anthony intimidating. I mean you put what, two targets on my house, im moving. Anthony this is eli, a settlement with a population of over 3,000. Relatively isolated from the rest of israel. Amind cohen is the chief executive of the eli settlement and its former head of security. Amind here you see from up above, most of our town. You see the palestinian villages all around. Anthony i mean its an unusual situation. I mean a lot of your neighbors would very much like you not to be here. Amind i know most of them and most of them theyre happy that were here. Because actually we gave them prosperity for the last 45 years and then when the plo came they lost it. Anthony im guessing a lot of people would disagree with that statement. Amind we work with high tech security, radars and cameras. Anthony so, from the high ground you can see anybody walking at night. You could see from pretty far out . Amind definitely. Anthony and could you identify them after the fact . Amind depends. But we have our protocols that we work with. And we had our successes. Anthony we drive to city inaudible . Another settlement a few miles away. Hot, sun bleached, suburban feeling. Behind its ring of electronic surveillance sensors and security everything they feel they need. School, Public Transportation and a petting zoo. Anthony Amichai Louria has lived here for 23 years. Hes a winemaker, an amateur cook. Oh, pretty. Wow. Youre not kidding around. [ speaks hebrew ] [ speaks hebrew ] amichai this salmon is marinated with pomegranate juice that i, on the season i squeeze pomegranates and i freeze the juice so ill have it all year round. Anthony so where were you before here . Amichai i was born in pennsylvania. Anthony so your parents brought you over at age 4 . Amichai yeah. Anthony parents in their 20s with kids living in the relative comfort familiarity of pennsylvania, heading off to, what must have at least in part of their minds been seen as uncertain. Amichai yes. It was very difficult for them. Almost all jews say next year [ speaks hebrew] its part of prayers that we say all the time. Anthony so if im understanding correctly, the bibles, its all right there. It all happened here, its sort of a nonnegotiable position. Amichai you see prophecies coming true. I mean things coming to life again, you know. Mountains that nobody wanted to live on, nobody dared to for thousands of years nobody wanted this place you know, and then finally we come here and everything is flourishing again, and its it makes you feel good you know . Its anthony youve been here since 90. You look, you look over the edge there, theres a arab village right how far away . Amichai yeah there is one that you can see from here. Anthony at any point during that time, you ever go to anybodys house, sit down and eat . Amichai not there, but in other villages. Anthony ever sat down at a muslim table . Amichai muslim table. Anthony your host and everybody else. Amichai coffee. Anthony but not here . Amichai no because i dont as a religious jew, i eat only kosher. So they respect that so they dont offer me. Anthony so i gotta ask you about something that troubled me coming up. The first house before you come up the drive to this village. The graffiti on the front. Amind yes. Anthony the targets spraypainted on it. Who done it . Amind villains. Bad people. Anthony kids . Amind i dont know. Maybe apparently kids. When we educate kids, kids are not able to understand complicated things. They see the world in black and white. When you get older, youre able to see the grey. And when someone hits you anthony look i understand why kids would do it. Given what you told me earlier, identifying the perpetrators within within the realm of possibility. Amind young people. Anthony why not paint it over . Amind good question. I dont know. Maybe we should. Youre right. Anthony elsewhere in the west bank, just outside of ramalah. Anthony meet betty sadeh and mona inale. Two members of the group of women who call themselves the speed sisters. The first all female palestinian racing team. Betty hi. Anthony hi, im anthony . Betty hi, betty. Anthony good to meet you. Betty when im riding a car, im the happiest girl ever. Racing. Its in my blood, racing. Here in palestine. Its very small. Theres no roads, so when i drive i speed. I feel free. Anthony did you find that people underestimated you at first . Betty at the beginning, they could maybe make fun of us, but when we got good scores, we win our respect. Anthony now they know. Betty yeah, well a car doesnt know if youre a woman or a man. Anthony yeah. Betty a lot of girls want to join us, the speed sisters. But some of the families are very reserved, they dont like their daughters to be between men racing you know . Palestine is a very reserved society. Anthony so are things getting better, staying the same, or worse . Betty you never know whats going to happen in palestine. One day its good and the other day its just, you never know, its a crazy country. Anthony the local police would prefer them off the streets for obvious reasons. But the track here, such as it is, has its drawbacks. Its basically a parking lot across from the detention center. Anthony what do they think about this next door, do they ever give you problems . Betty this is an israeli jail. Its called. One time we were here with speed sisters and there was problems because of the prisoners. So i just stopped my car over there, and i was walking, i wanted to see whats going on. And the israeli soldiers, they came running at me, and they started shooting at me, and i got i got shot in the back. It was uh tear gas. Anthony the canister hit you. Betty yeah, so my speed sisters they took me to the hospital. I fainted. Anthony have you thought of challenging the israelis to put up a team . Betty i cant race because my car is palestinian. Anthony what if they come over here . Betty theyre not allowed to enter the west bank and were not allowed to go to jerusalem so how can we race together . Anthony okay. Silly question. in dutch its happening. just ok is not ok. Especially when it comes to your network. At t is americas best Wireless Network according to americas biggest test. Now with 5g evolution. The first step to 5g. More for your thing. Thats our thing. [ song johnny cash, th sthese are my people these are the ones who will reach for the stars these are my people by the light of the earth, you can tell they are ours a new step to take and a new day will break yes, these are my people these are avas shoulders. They square off, hold firm, bear it all. This is her physical therapist, who lends his strength, to hers. These are avas shoulders, now stronger than ever. This is what medicare from Bluecross Blueshield does for ava. And with plans that fit every budget, imagine what we can do for you. This is the benefit of blue. Anthony its right there for all to see, and it feels like something out of a Science Fiction film. This is the wall. From the other side, or inside this place for instance, the aida refugee camp in the district of bethlehem, it doesnt feel like anything other than what it is. A prison. Abbed abbasur is the founder of the al rawad childrens theater center. So we are at the North Entrance of bethlehem and heading to ida refugee camp. Anthony so this has been here since 1950 . Abbed yes. It started with tents, people were under the tents for about 7 years, and later on the un saw that it was not temporary as it was supposed to be so they started building what they call shelters. Kid on street hello, hello, hello. Anthony First Impressions of the camp, theres a remarkable number of kids. [ speaks arabic ] abbed now its about 6,000 people and 2 3rds are under 18 years old so its a very young population. Unfortunately with the continuous degradation of political and economic situation, we are in a situation where we have no playgrounds or green spaces anymore. Anthony Children Play in the streets beneath wall covered in images of martyrs, plane hijackers, political prisoners. Anthony 6,000 people of that number, 66 percent are under the age of 18 and i dont care where that is in the world, thats pretty much a recipe for unruly behavior i think would be the best. Abbed well, especially yes. Especially when you dont have any possibilities to evacuate the anger and the stress in a creative way. So after i finish my studies, i came back here and i started using theater as one of the most amazing, powerful, civilized and nonviolent means to express yourself. Tell your story. To be truthful. And this is for me, the ability to build the peace within and to hopefully help them to think that they can grow up and change the world and create miracles without need to carry a gun and shoot everybody else or explode themselves or burn themselves but to stay alive. Anthony abbed takes me to the camps martyrs quarter. To be fed by islam. She runs a womens collective for palestinian cooking classes. Helping her provide for 6 children, one of whom is disabled. Anthony in america, kids grow up with pop stars, sports players. Never a politician. I mean, its unthinkable for a child to look up to a politician. Or to look up to a military figure. Sports or entertainment. Here, kids four, five years old, every day, theyre looking to somebody who, you know brought down a plague. Abbed yeah. Anthony um, im not questioning why that is. Abbed i know. Yeah. Anthony do you think its helpful . Abbed well, i guess we have a history. We are people who are under occupation. People honor their heroes. And their heroes are those who resist the occupation, whether they resisted through an Armed Struggle or an unArmed Struggle. And, to tell you the truth, sometimes i have been in fight with some Political Parties when they put images of people who were killed in their own houses. On the 29th of october 200, s1,e was killed in her kitchen by a sniper from the intercontinental cartel. But when these Political Parties take this woman and want to make a montage of photos with her carrying a gun to say this is the hero who liberated the palestine . Sorry, this is not true this woman was killed in her house. You go today and ask the palestinians, who is the great hero . You ask these kids, who will they recognize . They will recognize a young man from gaza who is an arab idol named muhammad asef. A singer who sings. He became more famous than abu mazin and arafat and everybody else. This is another image of palestine. Anthony you could almost believe, for a minute or two, that some kind of peace, some kind of reconciliation, meeting of the minds, sanity, is possible, after you visit mashda. Its a restaurant in what looks like an idyllic village in the judean hills about twenty minutes from jerusalem. It feels like an alternate universe for a number of reasons. Anthony michal balanes is of jewish. Jakob bahrun is muslim from a nearby village. Theyre partners, coowners of mashda and also married. Theyre unsurprisin