Now to do it on its god this piece of graffiti says we remember that. It was probably sprayed here just yesterday heidi that you can see the red devil in the background of all the dates from the past two centuries in which russia did bad things to us georgians talk of stuff roads are a lot of people know nothing about the states or stillbirth says they know them and still dont get that russia is our enemy is now lets head to the rally at the syrian. Japanese company as debut novel and his plays have won the most prestigious georgian literature boards. Even as to find out where georgia and its nearly four million inhabitants are headed first stop this to. Ministration in the capital tbilisi. Its a strange mixture the protesters include leftists and far right extremists feminists and gays and homophobes what seems to unite them is their nationalism ogust two thousand and eight so the flare up of the growing conflict the resurge origin born lasted five days claimed eight hundred fifty lives and displaced many thousands. Since then brusha has occupied the former georgian territories of a casita and South Ossetia an area amounting to a fifth of the country. The slogan on the sign a vulgar equivalent of three to look at last. I am. Doubt it is meeting some friends in front of the Swiss Embassy switzerland has been mediating between georgia and russia because the two countries have no direct diplomatic relations. Images from the war human Rights Groups say both sides committed abuses but at the tbilisi rally only the russian war crimes are on the agenda. The public humiliation of georgian soldiers depicted here made a lasting impression on darby. Saw. I have to admit that the sheer power of russia makes me feel insecure all. This giant empires are level so low and its hard to fight against it. Thats why i have this feeling of being completely unprotected. Now and it is focused on the russian president. And the nationalistic euphoria that followed georgian independence in ninety ninety one the countrys ethnic minorities will left out of the equation as effectively thrust into the arms of the russian its. That bad. An eighty five kilometer drive from tbilisi the city of gori. Is heading to his next stop the josef stalin museum. Built in the soviet era the museum is a bizarre memorial to the brutal dictator joseph is that a yawn of it starting. It paints a picture of a benevolent father of his country. Many of the visitors here are curious western tourists but some are genuine fans of stalin who make the pilgrimage to the strife that is dedicated to one of the worst mass murderers of the twentieth century. In the museum they say that most of the stalin supporters come from russia. But no one is willing to say that to the camera like. Theyre nice. When darby sees the pictures here he cant stop thinking of the atrocities of the stalin era in particular the socalled great purge of nine hundred thirty seven to thirty eight during which more than one hundred twenty georgian intellectuals were executed. Dutty says that swears germany has taken steps to come to grips with its nazi history georgia has done very little to publicly reappraise stalin. Was how close are you know marco. The old music which was built back then to glorify style of the past mistress and since then nothing has been changed. Nothing has been added to it without just a few pieces of information that mentions stalins purges and the repression that was started with its a propaganda museum. But nowadays a lot of people view it as a kind of museum of a museum. Or graphic novel. One tiny room is devoted to the war of two thousand and eight. Thats made it out in my diary it asks the museums curator. Really why she hasnt changed anything in this uncritical celebration. Or part of. It in her ears it was a shirtless hensons this is a museum and we have to tell the story of a mans life in a very short time going through tourism its about his life and work and what that was said to do back then all the material came from the communist party must go today we try to show the man. A very isolated man by the way a loner those three of them who ruled over a land with one hundred seventy million people. Or thought of uses and more broadly and all of the negative material anyone who wants to read that can find it on their computers all over the internet our visitors come here to get to know style and the man knows the player we want to see. On all his travels davita immediately takes note somebody experiences. Nothing until twenty ten a large statue of stalin stood in central gori. Dov it would like to seek out the fallen monument supposedly its now lying in a disused Industrial Area outside the town the curator refused to tell him the exact location saying it would be shameful to display the great man in that way. He was he is going very good to be used to a friend of a friend davita gets in touch with a chicken farmer from the area. Sun leads him to the overthrown starting off. With almost every. Day two men have a difference of opinion about the fallen dictator. Says hes not a stalinist but he had millions the dictator as a kind of mystical being. Who is doing what. All history shows that its always the same. We have a saying in georgia that its the times that rain not caves that its not an insult to stalin statue that someone whos not thinking right through it here on the scrap here. And once you know real history not fake history and realize what kind of a man he was. Please translate this word for word. So some would like to see stalin back on his pedestal in central glory i doubt it is considering working the hypothetical return into his new novel. With our. Own but. We. Really havent thought much about it so far but yes maybe but in my pessimistic or dystopian novel it could happen and i see the current trend in russia where real stalin cult is growing again and they show quite openly how much interest they have how they worship him even Russian Politicians are doing that is another example of how strong russian influence is so well think about that for my book is very godly Michelle Obama was going to take in the room so fortunately it was a meeting the holy ones only merely would i wouldnt. This is not an International Border despite what the sign claims. On this side of the fence. On the other georgians call it occupied territory the south the seasons and the russians say an independent state. Diplomats refer to this fence as the Administration Boundary line border to. So much money but its also expensive for russia to keep it to monitor it and punish us georgians. And then they make such an embarrassing mistake of the translation. I have no idea how that could have happened. I wrote. The words passage is forbidden is mistranslated into georgian expenses are forbidden. Georgians refuse to call the demarcation line a border because that would mean accepting the division of their country. Since two thousand and eight observers from the e. U. Monitoring mission in georgia have been patrolling here. In twenty seventeen alone they registered one thousand six hundred incidents the conflict is tensional here every day. I dont really believe that my literary provision fantasy will actually become reality georgia this is fiction im like all negative fiction its also warning. It is good for me to see this because it helps me imagine what the fictitious border in my book might look like. The fence divided the village of valley overnight again and again georgian fanis who cross over to work their fields on the south. The solution side get arrested after being beaten and forced to pay a considerable fine they are let go. To anyone caught crossing the line for the third time the risks up to two years in jail in South Ossetia that happen to neighbors of hama a foreman german teacher. You have been on in god we have a garden thats right over there called on the border line live with them if i go over there i cant take my grandchildren because they could be abducted any second by all the farmers and work over there in the garden isnt each and every day people get caught and hauled away and i live in constant fear of them. Growing three times suffer a seizure and russian soldiers set fire to thomas house but would she leave the area you never. Hear about because this is where i work this is where i live its my home its my country its my village where could i go where would i be allowed to go. Thats true right you know what do you think. You cannot leave me my never want to leave i will go on living here i will die here and my children and grandchildren will live here mind their aunt who lived. Right next to the highway is terrible and a settlement built as an Emergency Shelter ten years ago. But still houses eight thousand of the total thirty thousand ethnic georgians who were expelled from south the seizure. Theres a sense of resignation on the streets here via test just been out shopping. Hes the only one willing to speak to davi it on camera. Never get used to it but what can we do its very hard for the older people to pair this many of them have already died but the young people are only now starting to fix up these houses. They have no choice. This is party on the black sea coast. The port city is dilapidated as far as davita can see theres been Little Development here for years. A good. Party is important for the georgian economy but its not a place many tourists are likely to visit. This is where davita grew up in a working class family his parents still live here as does his sister with whom hes very close. But although david loves to see his sister cutter and his nieces not her and he says hed never move back to portie every visit here recalls the negative experiences of his you. Openly gay something that can be risky in provincial georgia although his family except his sexuality. David is expounding his theory about the division of the country his sister doesnt buy it. I dont believe georgia would be divided into two parts how could that happen very simply dont believe it. For delegates nieces dottle as they call him as a kind of cultural trailblazer. He says and he introduces them to unusual literature. Today its especially hard for him to say goodbye. His come to the hardest part of his journey. On the first day of the two thousand and eight war his cousin child died in a hail of russian bombs. Davita couldnt make it from tbilisi to the funeral because all the roads and rail tracks were blocked by russian tanks. Since then he has never dared to come here. He often weeps over the thoughts of his nineteen year old cousin who had been accepted to a university in dubai he died the day before he was scheduled to fly out. Shell that was killed while rescuing his wounded comrades he was awarded a posthumous medal for bravery. Does it sits at the grave for a long time he doesnt want to talk yet. A few hours later we accompany him to his favorite place in posi. Davita is relieved to have finally been to the cemetery but the middle doesnt interest him. Like jims uppers it makes absent. No difference to me. This is a big consolation to my aunt shes really proud of. Their guns its a big comfort for her. My pluggers she says but for me tempers i just wish she was still a life itself is far from a bitch and its cut. Down to takes the train back to tbilisi. Since its independence nearly three decades ago georgia has undergone visible modernization and the countrys political system has developed in parallel to its infrastructure. But still children artists and intellectuals do not feel entirely free that. You can write whatever you want or you can do what you want to not the government wont interfere. But a large part of our society is extremely conservative. And conservative is far too mild a word. And that part of society will not let us live freely. To put it in a nutshell you have the freedom to express yourself. But at the same time you dont. Just sitting close by has been listening to doubt that. She left the country twenty years ago for a life in europe her home is in london. She says that changes in georgia happening much too slowly she comes back once a year and experiences the country as still lacking freedom fight as it used to be back nine say. This is things that you hate me. In terms of him its a. Bad. Thing. To police he is the cultural and Political Center of georgia and its Religious Center to. The Orthodox Christian church wields a huge amount of power and by western european standards its very conservative. Nowadays darby spends almost more time abroad than here in the old course have to be leasing. From an early age he knew that he wanted to travel which is why he learned german russian and swedish his english was so good that when he was twenty one he was commissioned to translate harry potter into georgian. After a week of moving around georgia davi it is back home. He spends the next few hours typing up his notes from his travels. It started out as a Research Trip for his new book but some of the stages proved much more emotional than he expected. In the coming months he will be developing his fantasy about the division of georgia into two parts one loyal to russia and one oriented toward hero. Here at the royal district the attentively see davita and his old friend directed dancer to birds they are inspecting the stage set for their production of dov its play tiger and lion. A few balls. Even if he does have believes that artistic freedom is still under threat in georgia and. Got the deline all us over iraq would mark would have still totally easy to shock audiences or readers in this country or so which is why there are always attempts to control free speech and oratory. More julie thats also being considered at the government level. Just recently there was another initiative to control artists more strongly but luckily it failed because. A whole new protests it. Put down of it the theatre is a safe haven. Even here in tbilisi it is hard to lead an openly gay life. The riots the repressive measures every time someone reveals their Sexual Identity there are massive reprisals also in political circles where gay people are often blackmailed and of course this reaction is not only supported by the Georgian Church but also instigated. By much of this is a huge problem and the government cant well chicago wont solve it the problem are. The homes that were there on. This cafe in the old course have to be lisi is a popular Meeting Place for artists. Daveed is having a discussion with a psychologist friend to mash casually. Tama is a member of the georgian ethnic minority of South Ossetia. His family was driven out by the war. And lived for a while in the center of the Emergency Shelter this. Tells tell me about his experiences on the trip his First Encounter with the administrative Boundary Line left a deep impression as did the meeting with tom are the german teacher his neighbors are regularly abducted wrote to the. Wall it may be hard when you go there and experience it in person the fence stops being a symbol or a cool design at a demonstration. To trigger a totally different emotions especially when you meet people who live five meters away from that fence with them at the spot i dont want to sound sentimental but that was the moment where it became clear to me how differently those villages see the division. Of pics from auburn for them every single day. Until most settled in tbilisi some time ago. And look forward not back. They wish that more democratic and artistic impulses would come here from europe. When they start to feel stifled by their country they can find respite by travelling in the west. But for both of them hers is torture. The mentor has every reason to smile. The National Restaurant guide hasnt wanted his restaurant in vienna at its first stop. Its the only three star restaurant in austria. Whats his secret recipe. To find out. The roma. G. W. Decades dog month was an industrial powerhouse with the famous Football Team through some of the zero zero zero but the heyday of cold steel and heavy industry is long gone i want to find out how all of this dortmund past and present shaped the city to this day. Explores the citys rough and ready chunk of. Thirty minutes of d. W. I think is everything challenging first and i make a muslim. Song much different culture between here and there somewhat challenging for everything. Leading. To some of the same i think it was worth it for me to come to germany. Got my license to work as a swimming instructor a vision our two children other dogs just one of the toughest. Whats your story take part cherish on in for migraine stockmann. Breathtaking acrobatics we will have more from the flying steps later in the show the first of all a very warm welcome to dissident of your bags and
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