Forty years after the Islamic Revolution iran is a country torn between the conservative influence of the clerics and a desire for change. In tone line and find out whats going on in the world in a matter of minutes you can expect the Younger Generation to stand still young people will move on and if it quickly. Many are pushing back against the country strict social and cultural laws on the isle theres a new law that says we can only sing in the persian but since we started out weve always aim to be international and our struggle. And many are testing their own limits in their bid for greater freedom. This is the first time weve done an off road tour that im going into the forest and spending the night away from home its great to have a potentially wealthy country struggling with powerful outside enemies and its own domestic problems. Young with iran is known to be rich in Natural Resources but the government cant even manage one island in a. Land of contradictions at once unsettling and breathtakingly beautiful. Mamma granites have a bitter skin but theyre sweet inside just like iran with you dont. We begin our journey in the capital tehran. Home to a population of thirteen million its the beating heart of the country. Were meeting a Fashion DesignerWhose Mission is to challenge irans strict islamic dress code. Needed but also you have admitted that the moves in the way people dress is like a Living Museum a marriage to the country that long after the Islamic Revolution there were only four colors black brown dark blue and grey go his way out of the. New thousand five hundred years ago iranians want to give guests colorful fabrics as gifts. But today our hands are tied. In islam black is actually seen as an ugly nasty unpopular color. If they think it shouldnt actually. You know. I dont know how it came to this at all. Melissa moneys aim is to return color to the streets of iran she scours the country collecting antique fabrics and reworks them as fresh and modern outfits. Money is the ground in fashion a celebrity. But even though she has an ambitious agenda shes also careful not to go too far. So her seamstresses take their headscarves off when theyre indoors in front of the camera so money keeps her head covered she doesnt want any trouble with the authorities. Now we are going to the parliament and the parliament is the place. Part of the end of the yes but i. Dont think we. Should. We accompany the designer on her weekly shopping trip to one of the citys main bazaars. I. Command. I came back to tehran from london before the Islamic Revolution in one nine hundred seventy nine and at first i worked for a bank. There was a doorman. Every morning he tipped his hat when we arrived and greet us very respectfully. After the revolution he ordered us women to stay in our rooms and work together. Back then i decided never to be employed somewhere but rather to be my own boss so that was a political story wasnt it but not really it was just a past not an actor right this was. The conflict over Irans Nuclear program has left the country isolated. U. S. Sanctions against tehran affect everyone the value of the iranian ryall against the dollar continues to decline making imported goods more expensive. Prices are exploding on. Intimate friday than i would i say medals a few weeks ago for six cents now they cost eighty cents. I hardly have any customers left women used to come to me and pay the equivalent of seven hundred euros for an evening gown i mean i dont have customers like that anymore and the poor vendors here they have even bigger problems. On the little book. For her latest project milo some money has partnered with a Major Management consultancy. Her glossy fashion magazine lotus is now published in english as well as persian. Its sold in iran and a number of select cities worldwide. Some money is chief editor her backer has an International Client base. But this particular one i like it because its about the culture of five star that is a new thing and this wonderful lady whos a pioneer in fashion shes the first designer to have a run you know. Catwalk a fashion show and you want permits by the government. Thats the money spent months negotiating with the authorities for permission to publish your designs in a magazine on sale overseas islamic fashion. Clothes to comply with standards of modest dress. Now is it twenty year is. What color and that. Of course. But the fight hasnt been won yet. Is a money recently signed a contract with an airline to design the flight attendants outfits elegant but by no means figure defining. The design or complains that shes not allowed to send models down a runway thats even allowed in afghanistan she says. Theres amicable. I would be so happy if i had an opportunity to present my work in public like designers all over the world to organize completely normal runway shows so that the fashion world can get to know my work. So even if hundreds of women see me as successful personally i have no sense of satisfaction. Yet that. Small step by small step mom has a money is fighting for reform not by opposing the regime but by securing its permission to show her work. The Younger Generation in iran has less patience they abide by the rules but they find ways of carving out small slices of their own personal freedom. We meet up with some young iranians in no shah on the southern shore of the caspian sea some two hundred kilometers north of tehran. Seven years ago i decided to start saving up to buy my own car when i worked in a cafe from nine in the morning until eleven in the evening then id work in a garage making car headlamps until four in the morning. Look through the hole through the local roll through google and. Look. Through all your other means i came across these groups of people on instagram who do off roading i was really intrigued and started thinking about doing it myself there wasnt Anyone Around here that i knew of organizing off road adventures. He did you know the kathleen of the whole would be. Jump shed and his girlfriend should i havent been together long they invite us along on one of their off road clubs tours and give us permission to film. Its brave of them to go on camera and for shy guy to let herself be filmed without a headscarf. Look i think the wall about four young people getting to know each other with whether theyre in a lot of or just with friends this is a perfect spot it. Was going to. Think that i dont cheat and i usually meet up and go for a drive. Sometimes just for fifteen minutes or half an hour. Every two weeks we in a cafe. Now and then we meet more regularly but weve never spent more than two hours together and both thought at that would be only. One among quote shama mosquitoes is a student city and popular with tourists fleeing the stress of tehran. Im here in the north the climate is my own the air fresh and the view of the mountain forests are spectacular. And. The club members have invested a lot of money in their off road vehicles to them off roading is more than a hobby its a taste of freedom. They get together once or twice a month and head out to the countryside. Chaudhary ex father is considered a martyr he died of wounds sustained in the iran iraq war. Her mother and her brothers are strict with her they dont know that shes spending the weekend with her boyfriend. I am just glad that im distressed i once told my brother the truth about where i was going but it was no good. Im forced to lie. Of course im worried ill be found out. But you know normal everyday life is no fun. The worry makes list all the more exciting it makes me enjoy the trip all the more. Feeling like you need to be secretive when you want to have a good time is actually cool. This is the first time she has come on a trip with me so i want to be as great as possible the first trip is important i want the First Impression to be good if. Its still a shark. Boy if youre going to get. All these young people were born after the Islamic Revolution theyve never known another iran theyre well educated and many of them have relatives who live abroad they know whats going on in the world at the very least from surfing the internet joshi to and should i met online exchanging photos and phone numbers on instagram now and then the government blocks social media platforms but young people take it in stride resign or to check out everyone uses social media in iran we couldnt survive a single day without it everyone knows how to get the apps you need to unlock sites that have been blocked so you can get back to surfing because it matters so much to the sad. Socializing in iran usually happens behind closed doors or away from prying eyes like at this campsite deep in the woods. Religious police raids used to be commonplace these days the regime mostly leaves people in peace within their own swallows. These young people dont mind being filmed they say we just want to do what young people all over the world do it doesnt mean we dont love our country. By the vatican its terrible that most documentaries show around in such black and white terms all despair and suffering and veiled women each other youd think we lived in a communist system and total darkness. I never show that people in iran are happy to mind and enjoy life despite the restrictions we live with and. Not only by the fact. That theyre taking a risk but theyre willing to live with the consequences for the sake of their personal freedom. That. I. Think. The next day a few more pictures before they head back home to post on instagram for their friends and to show the world that there is another iran its not an easy place to live but its their home. Again my family and if i walk down the. Street like this even women would come up to me and complain oh wow its not just the regime that strict not even the police. If a woman saw me in public without a headscarf then she come up to me and ask why i was going about like that oh wow thats the culture that developed after the Islamic Revolution and. No one is happy with the way things are at the moment. Sometimes when were together we joke with our elders that its their fault. And they say its true but this is not the way things were supposed to turn out. To listeners. Some of. The club is already planning its next off road tour the next escape from everyday life its not easy for young people in iran to live their dreams. Our next stop is mashad a bustling city in the northeast of the country one of irans most significant centers of religious and political power. Its a Public Holiday the anniversary of the martyrdom of a mom raising a descendent of the islamic Prophet Muhammad and the eighth shiites in. The shrine is managed by an extremely wealthy religious foundation an institution that wields a lot of power not only in mashad but also on the regime in tehran. I. I. The crowds of pilgrims mark the Public Holiday by visiting the shrine every year sees some twenty seven million devout muslims visit mashad this conservative reactionary city is an unlikely home for a lively underground rock music scene but as we find out appearances can be deceiving. His soundproof too small sound studio in his parents house to make sure the outside world doesnt hear what goes on in here. For me being a heavy metal musician in mashad means living in a dead end if so little of everything i do i do purely for myself. Its not for public consumption. I only do it because of the pressure i feel if. This is what but that reinforces my belief in what im doing. If it werent for social media we wouldnt be here now we musicians are all connected via the internet. Before i met the others on facebook i felt very lonely and lost. But when i realized there were many others in my position i realized i wasnt alone. The contact we have with one another and also a sense of envy in competition is what spurs us on. The heart of. A jam session with the band out of nowhere in the basement of a tenement block on the citys outskirts someone always keeps watch outside in case the police show up but down here it looks like a band practice anywhere in the world. Molly if you play a well i play c. Is that ok for you. There are challenges of rock musicians here in mashad many come from middle class families like under. Religious hard liners reviled the western rock they play. And they see heavy metal as the devils work. Was intuition lots of people think that metal heads worship the devil and that were satanists of course were not and they think our music is aggressive and incitement to violence and from all thats completely wrong to give them i look at us metal heads are the most peaceful people you can imagine so. But people have these fixed ideas which is a real shame on. This as ive seen lots of bands have their work censored for the authorities tell them that if they want to be approved they need to modify what theyre doing i see that happening all the time but in the end the artist doesnt feel its his own song anymore and doesnt want to play it is wrong. About. Our next meeting is with razor go harry whos the same age as and dishes. He was just a boy when he decided he wanted to be a cleric. Days ago he wears the black turban of the same descendants of the prophet mohammed. Hes a coup done a servant of the holy shrine of the memories a who works in the soup kitchen and helps visitors to the mosque. In tucson im going to do my friends and i are here to provide everyone who visits with a place to find rest and something to eat. The pilgrims have come a long way and are thirsty and often hungry. They come to my shot out of love and devotion to him on raising. We live here i see it is my duty to serve these people as a. Bunch of holiday meal. On the anniversary of him raises martyrdom does gripped by religious fervor his followers engage in archaic rituals flagellating themselves with chains to make his suffering. Young men carry the heavy ensign of. Raissa staggering under its weight. Had i. Was even if these martyrs are dead that we can reach out to them as that we should they are here that there is much we can ask of the a moms great spirits that good to give and they can fulfill our requests because they rule over the universe that means than boy. That is what the shia believe in the convoy had a vision a joy many of us come to the a moms mausoleum to reach out to his spirit and to show respect to the saying good bye then issued out. Raise or go hurried lives in studies in the amman raise a shrine complex. It encompasses a mosque and the muzzle liam seven courtyards a seminary and Islamic University libraries and seminar rooms. I got my source im going to when we are unable to change the minds of young people who do not share our faith then we organize events are specifically for them so as not to lose contact with them as we offer them jobs taking photos or video recording advance or working as drivers we do it to make sure we keep in touch with them im pretty sure that even file would be a vast battle got out of the shit. But we arrange a meeting between reza go hurry the young cleric and under the rock musician. Theyre both twenty seven they both grew up in mashad. But the two in have a completely different worlds and couldnt be more different still they talk to each other as openly as the constraints of Iranian Society own level. Theres. All sorts of musicians perform here in the park but when we apply for a comment were turned down and usually on the grounds of the way we look because the authorities think will intimidate people whats your face which. Sometimes you might meet a cleric who doesnt even know all the rules of his own religion let alone how musicians such as yourself think. And thats the problem we know far too little about one another so theres instant animosity and. One reason why there are so many hard rock and heavy metal musicians in mashad is the pressure we face. Im always being told what im not allowed to do i need to write songs to express how i feel and so do many others. And thats the basic principle of rock and metal the more pressure there is the more explosive the reaction. To the music is rooted in the human problems social suffering these problems cant be ignored. I cant just grabbed on to shape by the collar and order him to get over these problems. Thats not how it works. For the sharpness although there are not many like raised. Another cleric would have had very Different Things to say there was little to this the idea that we might all sit down together and talk about ways to improve things is absurd. Given the current circumstances it just wouldnt happen. Show. At the fox. The two men are unlikely to resolve their differences and will most likely never meet again. Thats and. Thats why doesnt john you know im sure i wont spend the rest of my life in mashad at one point ill leave but that doesnt mean ill forget my home ill come back one day and work in the cultural sector in music or something similar. Maybe ill open a music school. But only once ive gained experience elsewhere i will. Show it is a city steeped in both religious devotion and social despair a city that at once repels its children and embraces them. Leave mashad in the north and head south to homos island in the persian gulf. U. S. Sanctions against iran have a special significance here its a place where the countrys International Problems play out alongside its domestic ones. One thing that is for most was once the most important port along the maritime stretch of the silk road the island is on the threshold between east and west and used to be beautiful and wealthy whoever controlled hormones island controlled the seas the trade routes from india over africa and the suez canal on other stores wasnt. Too good to. Raise a cooler ronnies sings of love and suffering he grew up in poverty on homos island then left and went to tehran where he launched his successful career as a musician. But yet. Today he and his band are famous in iran but he hasnt forgotten where he came from and often returns. To the persian gulf where the Arabian Peninsula feels nearer than tehran. Here the many cultural influences of the countries along the silk road are still in evidence. The women wear color and the traditional face masks of who live in the coastal region. But these people are poor they feel forgotten by their government and ignored by the rest of the world peace who. Uses his celebrity to organize aid projects here on homos island enlisting the help of oth