89 percent of executives are greed. Were in the midst of a Global Climate emergency. 81 percent that they were personally impacted by Climate Change. And 63 percent of their companies were very concerned about Climate Change. But does this growing acknowledgement of Climate Change also change the behavior of consumers and companies . How sustainable is the free market . Really . Thats our topic today on made. Welcome. Now whether you are a fan of globalization or not, one of its advantages is that it has made goods much cheaper. Thats things and large part to the shipping industry. Its never been easier or cheaper to send goods by sea. But the environmental cost is huge, and if things dont change, thats only going to get worse. New European Commission estimates that compared to 2000 levels, c o, 2 emissions from Maritime Transport builds up all by 2050. Something as simple as a t shirt has often been around the world before we where it chris carl reports take a look at your standard t shirt. Where does it come from . The label says made in turkey or mexico or bangladesh, but thats only part of its epic journey. The cotton probably comes from lubbock, texas. Its then woven, treated bleached, and died across the ocean in china, cut in stone into a t shirt and bangladesh sent back to the u. S. A couple of clicks later. Its traveling across another ocean, say to berlin, where it sold for for euros. 99. It sounds like madness, but its actually shipping. Shipping is so cheap that some aspects seem absurd. For example, it rains 247 in belgium, yet we buy on water and the is bottled in South Pacific fish gets caught in the north sea. He then goes phrases to asia, where it split it and it said back, but there is a hidden cost to these curiosities. The full price of shipping is being paid by the environment in relative terms, shipping is very efficient, transporting one ton of cargo em. Its 16 grams of c o 2 per kilometer. Its over 10 times that by road and by air its a lot more. But in absolute terms, its an absolute nightmare. This is she a distance, is that mean that this a mission stack up and become a lucy gillian works for sees at risk and association of n g os working to protect the oceans 80 cents. It ships depending heavy feel, no riches. I really think viscous pulling to feel its kind of, its one step away from tom. And, you know, the industry emits as much as all the coal plants in the us. And just a bit less than aviation, but somehow shipping escape scrutiny. Shipping is the only sector it doesnt pay for carbon pollution. Fight of bass off leads the shipping program at transport, an environment and enjo campaigning for cleaner transport. Its the only sector that doesnt pay taxes on the fossil fuels uses. It doesnt pay v. Recently global leaders, they agreed to impose 15 percent global minimum corporate taxation rate. That was on one second. That was exempt as shipping. But how can that be given the scale ships handle some 90 percent of global trade . Then theres a strange little enigma. Imagine something going wrong on a japanese built american owned tanker. Sailed by a philippine crew managed by a cypriot sailing from china to canada and international waters. Who do you blame . Well, maybe panama, panama, marshall islands, liberia, bahamas, malta is 5 countries, which you dont really hear on our, on a daily basis, right . Theyre not really big powers in the Global Politics or even economics. They are the king makers when it comes to shipping. Thats because of a system called flag of convenience. The practice began during the prohibition era selling alcohol in the usa was illegal, so Passenger Ship owners began registering their ships in panama, so they could serve drinks on board. People always say that the oceans are lower and not lower. The lower the c several 100 pages long rows. George is a journalist and author who has written extensively about the shipping industry. But the problem is that there is very little enforcement any more than ship owner can rent a flag from any country in the world, fly that flag on his ohio ship. And then that ship it is a little piece of that country. So is governed by that flag. The International Maritime organization is the only body that can set policy for the entire sector. Its a un agency task with, among other things, fighting Climate Change, but as done the opposite. There are multiple reasons. First of all, at the imo members, states are normally represented by the ministry of transports. They want to promote shipping aviation and so on and so forth. Climate are we environmental challenges that has not been traditionally speaking their domain. Thats the domain of the Climate Ministry or environment minister. So this is a kind of structural problem and policies are rarely put to vote. The i am o prefers to rule by consensus, which gives louder voices, a de facto veto power. And number 3, industry has powerful loping associations, electricity, national allegations, and in many cases, put pressure on the government. 30 percent of its representatives are not policy makers, but Business People the highest number in any un agency. For example, in the past 10 years german delegates, the imo, was very ambitious, and then the person go to coal from the ministry saying that you need to dial down because one of the domains shipping companies wasnt very happy about that mission that germany was driving at by, well, or, or a, a ah managed build as a big ships to exploit economist trade. The enabled industries to create one year at the keatings and t shirts that it just said cheat the people, think of them is disposable. And thats been facilitated by cheap shipping. That doesnt pay for explanation. Oh, when it comes to emissions is absolutely no excuse how slow the shipping industry is going to address that. Its just, its absolutely shameful. Mm. But momentum for change is building, its recognized that we cant so Climate Change with that will say solving the emissions problem from shipping. The European Union is taking a leading role to force companies to reduce emissions. And innovation can be a huge help or believe technology such as batteries for short, distance vessels, grain, hydrogen, opening, hydrogen bays, fuels can fill that gap and fully to come in either sector. But it takes good timing and effort to turn a tanker around. And the i m o has displayed neither shipping has been showing that it can move swiftly when it comes to reforming itself with thing. That is possible. It is doable, but its not going to happen on his own. Then its the regulations that mandate switch to those sustainable behavior. Sustainable technologies im shipping Companies Need to renew ships, would be far more expensive, but it, german Conservation Group has worked out that those 499. 00 t shirts would then cost just 0. 02 more. Well, despite the world for many good take before they wind up at our doors, their final destination could be the trash fun. Even if you try to return things you buy on line, they can wind up in the garbage anyways. Marian, who to investigate how retailers are destroying mountains of brand new good will despite the world for many goods take before they wind up at our doors, their final destination could be the trash fun. Even if you try to return things you buy online, they can wind up in the garbage anyways. Marian, who to investigate how retailers are destroying mountains of brand new good. And the efforts to change that. An Amazon Logistics center in germany filmed by greenpeace. Under cover, the video is said to show brand new clothing being destroyed. It triggered a storm. Is a funny destroying new product that is destroying resources, isnt carnival in a climate crisis. Per the greenpeace campaign, called out the online giant, and raised awareness of the problem of waste. To here, text here, valuable resources go into making clothes. One garment comes into contact with up to 3000 different chemicals during production. On the simplest white cotton taisha requires 2700 liters of water. Thats what one person drink think, 2 and a half years. Yeah. The problem with Online Retail is that a lot of products get sent back. Processing them isnt always worthwhile for the company. Every year, 20000000 items are destroyed and germany alone, logistics expert beyond us, decker did the math and came up with that number. So our Online Retailers, the biggest problem allied off was to hunt brick and mortar stores, still have a higher sales volume than Online Retailers. Those, those do see fewer returns on that button. On the other hand, their amount of surplus stock left over is huge. In nonsense. And the industry has grown rapidly before the pandemic, the average person in germany spent more than 900. 00 euros on clothing a year. Thats a market volume of 76000000000 euros, most of which was spent on fast fashion divorce. And so it was the clothing giants that offer low priced fashion that saw massive growth is being able to dress fashionably for little money, is very attractive for many people. Always offer your marriage, especially young people who dont earn so much, was with the pandemic, was a huge shock to retailers. Germany had 3 locked downs in between shops or offering cut prices to get rid of stock. Still, retailers were left with mountains of unsold clothes, winter collections, for example, that cant be sold in the summer. Its because im a total of 800000000. 00 new gomez when the so its the so called corona collection and its completely unclear what will happen with then many retailers are saying they plan to destroy them. I gave the sci fi boy, but the mass destruction of new products is actually banned under german law. But so long as its complete nonsense, greenpeace doesnt need to worry noise. We dont know of a single case where brand new clothes that could still be sold or been destroyed. We dont know all 20000 companies and cant look behind every door. There may be a few cases, but were not aware of amazon, and amazon also feels wrongly accused and issued a statement. The number of product sold and shipped by amazon that have to be disposed of is only a few for 1000. And were working hard to keep reducing the number items may be donated, sold at a loss, put in storage or recycled. Retailers often pass that work on to other companies. So its not always easy to trace where textiles, end up, wendy, its mr. Mcmillan got a few, i to conduct a study on the disposal of surplus stock by stores medical, the disposal of corona surplus. No one would cooperate because all these things just get hushed up when shes often battens, with germany toughened up its laws, making the disposal of goods that are new or as good as new officially illegal. The law is mainly designed to create greater transparency, but will it work on most hudson, hawkins . Nothing is. This law only applies to retailers and manufacturers, all the middleman platforms and disposal firms in between are not included on the. So in many cases, the law will remain a paper tiger that uses a future. So what can make a difference . Maybe we dont need so many new clothes, people in germany on an average of 95. 00 garments each and 1. 00 and 5. 00 of them never gets warned. Best every day. Activism is the best way to protect the environment. Dont find new all the time with Electronics Books and close. You can borrow rent, share swapped. There are lots with models, but they need state support. The only problem shopping is still on number one, hobby in germany. Now we all probably know by now that the rise of cheap fast fashion is terrible for the environment. But then there as she and the chinese Online Retailer famous for its ultra cheap dupes of popular styles, the prospect of getting the latest fashions for the price of a cup of coffee has made she n into a social media sensation. But what is the true cost be an issue finds out, hey guys, youve ever been any word or tick tock lately. Probably seen a lot of that. Ya to see. I hope it really heavy. Oh, welcome to the world. I was like, i dont think its shiny, she in is how i tend to pronounce it. She and isnt just foss fashion, its ultrafast. You can get dresses for 5 euros bags her sex, or courses for 3. If you want a nose ring for 0. 75, this is your jam. Jonesy has pretty much gone bananas, hope company, which exists entirely more or less on social media, has no physical stores and his operations are more or less a big lock box. We took a dive into this vast fashion phenomenon and what about for the environment in an air of growing climate consciousness . How is this even happening . Mostly, i dont even know darcy in until during the story. Then again, im a millennial and the stock is from 2002. So i went to the center of ruin to see if shoppers there knew better than i did you know what i yes, of course its a big Online Fishing so you shop them much, much sometimes. Yeah, theres nice stuff. Its cheap. Nice fabric. I think of, of the ones i wanted to return. Everything is not really any point. When you buy like 20 years. She and targets mostly young women. It adds thousands on things to its inventory every day. At any one time, it has as many as 600000. 00 products with a typical price tag between 8. 00 and 30. 00, it stuff can be half as cheap as other fast fashion china. And what is different is that the explosion, as young people with phones theyve helped with product discovery, does the suture. You took her dolly an expert on all things, e commerce and parent of to jonesy girls, but she is also from my understanding here quite a bit from getting it social media Strategy Centers around getting celebrities and influenced us to market the brand on social media. Katie perry little nozzle, rita, aura, storm breed and yarrow she katie, have all gotten on the she entering the please dont forget to die. He em together t shirt a so much for tuning into lucy and together. But the biggest part of its Online Presence has to do with the hall on tick tock. Users post reels that show of what they ordered and what they got. A lot of these posts go viral, crating Marketing Campaign that basically runs itself. I bought 2000. 00 is mike with so it looks pretty good. I see this very addictive algorithm influencers and young women. Maxine beta is the go to expert on the fashion and Garment Industry. Its a very like impressionable age where they want to fit in Clothing Companies have utilized that insecurity to, to drive a lot of sales, but never to the extreme that were now seeing the she and hashtag on tick tock has 17000000000 views. Its Instagram Account has over 22000000 followers. This year it was the number one shopping up in 56 countries. Have reportedly made 10000000. 00 in revenue last year, which means its catching up fast to giants like h an. M. And zora. Sheehan has dominated fast fashion in the west, but its headquarters there half way across the globe, and gondo china. And what happened, sir . Well, nobody really knows their very secret if they dont talk to anybody. So its very hard to know exactly what theyre doing. Usually Fast Fashion Companies take a month to get an item from designed to store, but analysts say she and cuts that time to as little as a week. It uses powerful algorithms to predict trends and sometimes doesnt even start manufacturing until the order is placed. The, there is no magic, right . The only way that you get very cheap product is by not paying workers an flouting any environmental standards. They have a high, a lot of temporary walkers and they have to have contracts. Its to either a small factories and house workshops will pay it as 1. 00 of the only journalist who went to sheens production sites and guam dro to investigator labor practices. She found a disparate web of crowded workshops under pain people without official contracts. Its not that she has that child labor, she has the abuse d, a work harris. The issue is those walkers, they are not in the social welfare system. This means workers have no rights or guarantees the demand for cheaper, faster clothing means that wages in the industry have to be low to remain competitive. Its not only about a shame, but its a more social is to prevail in the whole society. And as it turns out, the companys been making headlines for the secrecy, the fashion transparency index, which rates companies on how open they are about their supply chains, listed she and at the bottom of its rankings. And what about the actual close . If its to her to be true, then it probably is, you cannot have a Business Model like that and operate in any way with respect to the planet or its people. You just cant. Plenty of people have taken to social media to protest the shoddy quality of its clothes. Leslie, i thought just the swim suits are going to be trash. Um, i could not be more disappointed. This is a piece of crap. So if at that disposable it means theyre all getting dumped somewhere, almost a 100000000. 00 tons of textiles and up and landfills every year. Thats 500 ever given ships. Remember the thing that got stuck in the suez canal, most of it goes to the global south where local suffered the environmental consequences. And did you know that the fashion industry is responsible for 8 to 10 percent of Greenhouse Gas emissions . The Garment Industry is so unregulated that its hard to st. Just how much is contributing to Climate Change. All we can say is that she in is accelerating it like never before to very Energy Intensive process decree, textiles. This production is happening in places like principally china with a cold, but you know, continues to have a cold based energy grid. But i dont think it is slowing down anytime soon. The average consumer today by 60 percent more than they did and 2000 brands are now throwing w collections on. And she and takes this to a whole new level. It taps i