After a Year of Pandemic Pain, Some Dallas Restaurateurs Are Ready to Get Political
On March 8, 2020, a crowd converged on Four Corners Brewing Co. for a festival dedicated to Filipino food. Popular, rising-star pop-up businesses run by Filipino-American chefs with day jobs served more than a thousand customers that day. At 2 p.m., the wait for a bowl of noodles was 50 minutes, and another line was keeping people standing for an hour. It felt like every food lover in Dallas was there. In one line, I chatted with Texas Monthly taco editor José Ralat, and at the ice cream booth, D Magazine dining critic Eve Hill-Agnus worked serving scoops. None of us knew this would be...