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Intent on reigniting the flavors pioneered by Italian Underground’s founders, the Durretts, new owners Ben and Web Heyliger plan to promote a menu that will remind people of simpler times and rekindle old recipes with help from long-serving staff.

Below the Grand Avenue Bridge, beneath the historic Silver Club Building, beyond the Italian Underground’s tables draped in red- and white-checkered cloth, blue flames roasted Ben Heyliger’s pasta skillet.