A huge male silverback gorilla nibbles on a tasty bamboo shoot before farting loudly, oblivious to his neighbors — farmers working fertile fields a stone’s throw away. With hundreds of mountain gorillas in residence, Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda is a conservation triumph, but this resurgence is not without consequences, as the majestic creatures now struggle for space to grow and thrive. Straddling Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the Virunga range includes eight volcanoes in the heart of Africa’s densely populated Great Lakes region and is — along with Uga...