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We Irish love Albarino, and Albarino loves us: its spiritual home of the Atlantic-fringed Rias Baixas region in Galicia counts Ireland as the third-largest export market after the US and UK, by volume alone. We can both afford to spread the love then, Albarino and us. Today’s selection of white wines features friends from inland Galicia and south into neighbouring northern Portugal.

February can be fickle. Is it winter or spring? No wonder there are two camps on that question — it seems even the weather itself can’t quite decide. It ain’t summer, that’s for sure, so it can be a fine time to seek out the heat of some bottled sunshine, something that Sicily delivers with gusto.