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For serene views, pretty villages and fine food – but hardly any crowds – head for central Italy’s overlooked lake district

Passignano sul trasimenoAnguillara sabaziaSanta cristinaIsola maggioreGrotte di castroTuoro sul trasimenoIsola polveseCastiglione del lagoTrevignano romanoAntonella pacchiarottiNorcineria morelliJohannes defukPodere marellaOdescalchi castleItalian air force museumLake bracciano