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Few homemade dishes. places like this one -- bar do careca. what are the requirements that define a boteco? >> eduardo maya: it's a place where the family is. behind the counter full-time. >> anthony: mom and pop. >> eduardo maya: mom and papa, yeah. >> anthony: eduardo maya is a self-taught gastronome and paterfamilias of the boteco scene here. luiz otavio, a beverage tycoon who specializes in the legendary cachaca, of minas gerais. >> eduardo maya: if the boteco is good, people come all over town. it's like a home outside our home. >> luiz otavio: it's a group therapy. >> anthony: what do yo...

Seriously. >> anthony: ass face? >> leonardo paixao: it's actually exactly the words. >> anthony: so how was the -- how was your dinner tonight? were you -- were you busy? >> leonardo paixao: you know what happened tonight? it came like three clients. a lady with her husband and her chef. and she said, "oh, this is my chef. he is going to eat and me and my husband are not because we're eating special food for detox. we're full of restrictions and we brought -- we brought our soup, so if you can please heat my soup for me because detoxing." >> anthony: detoxing from what? what are you, a heroin...

>> beatriz: this museum has put minas gerais in the world art map. everybody that is in contemporary art today knows this place or have heard about this place. >> anthony: wow. >> beatriz: wow. >> anthony: beatriz lemos de sa is an art dealer who represents brazilian artists based in belo. >> beatriz: this is tunga pavilion. tunga is one of the major contemporary artists in brazil. he started his work in the '70s, and he has also this revolutionary side. he likes the transgression, so that's why he uses all kinds of materials -- things can be very strange for you as you see them. >> anthony: s...

♪ [ band singing ] >> anthony: the story of minera cuisine, you could argue, starts with a gold rush. the world's first, in fact. in the late 1600s, alluvial gold was found in the mountainous rivers of minas. over the next hundred-plus years, while portuguese masters fanned themselves on the riverbanks, african slaves sifted billions in gold from the mud and earth. by the end of the 19th century, the deposits were exhausted and about half a million africans had been forced to make this country their home. now brazil has the largest african diaspora in the world. and though brazil remains a c...

Male-dominated, dirty glass joints to the centerpiece of the minera social scene. so what's on the menu? >> eduardo maya: boteco in minas is a bit like the italians. we eat a lot of pork here. an important thing about the boteco in minas is that they serve real food -- food from minas gerais. >> anthony: so what are we having tonight? >> eduardo maya: i think we are having tongue, of course. ox tongue. >> anthony: right, uh, i'm intrigued what -- >> eduardo maya: would you like some tripe as well? >> anthony: i think a little tripe as well. >> eduardo maya: would you like some hand of the pig?...