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This is hillbrow, a notoriously dangerous district. and this is dj les. >> dj les: when i came here, i only dreamt of being a musician. imagined myself singing in front of a huge crowd, you know, making money in the process. that's what i dreamt about. >> anthony: he spins records and promotes acts and events in nightclubs. we meet in his favorite spot -- sympathy's restaurant. what's good? what do you like? well, that looks good. is that fried chicken? >> dj les: i love -- there's the fried chicken. >> anthony: the place is heavy with the smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up...

The place is heavy with the smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up, place your order, and be sure to get some meal pot. it's a nice heavy base. tell me about the neighborhood. >> when i first came. >> before '92 it was like white business district, residential district? >> back then, you could see respect. >> once hillbrau was an elite whites-only center of town. but when things started to change, so did hillbrau, becoming one of the first gray areas where whites and blacks mixed. it became aspirational, a symbol of everything black africans have long been denied but was now ac...

District. and this is deejay lez. >> when i came here, i always dreamed of being a musician. i see myself singing in front of huge crowds, you know, making money in the process. that's what i dreamt about. >> he spins records and promotes acts and events in nightclubs. we meet in his favorite spot. sympathy's restaurant. what's good? what do you like? that looks good. is that fried chicken? >> that's the fried chicken. >> the place is heavy with the smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plate with beets and coles...

>> when i came here, i always dreamed of being a musician. i see myself singing in front of huge crowds, you know, making money in the process. that's what i dreamt about. >> he spins records and promotes acts and events in nightclubs. we meet in his favorite spot. sympathy's restaurant. what's good? what do you like? that looks good. is that fried chicken? >> that's the fried chicken. >> the place is heavy with the smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plate with beets and coleslaw that's a nice, heavy base. >> ...

Got to put something in your mouth to get your ears open, you know. ♪ >> across town, another pioneer of sorts. an urban settler in a very different neighborhood. this is hillbrow. a notoriously dangerous district. and this is deejay lez. >> when i came here, i always dreamed of being a musician. i see myself singing in front of huge crowds, you know, making money in the process. that's what i dreamt about. >> he spins records and promotes acts and events in nightclubs. we meet in his favorite spot. sympathy's restaurant. what's good? what do you like? that looks good. is that fried chicken?...