Food is a tradition that binds us at Christmas.
Cynthia Stead Today is Christmas Eve, and I am responsible for Julbord, or Christmas Table. But since the menu hasn’t changed in over 60 years, at least I know what to serve. First, kottullar, the Swedish meatballs. As the grease-spattered page in my mother’s old cookbook says, “Neither baking nor reheating can harm this wonderful concoction." Equal parts ground pork and beef, I used to get them ground together to mix. But now markets won’t do it as there are health regulations about putting different meats together in a grinder, and while I have the old meat grinder I’ve never trie...