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The road to Broome is desolate, the landscape surrounding it almost bereft of visible life. The pindan soil so intensely pigmented it will stain your clothes forevermore is cloaked in withering scrub and waves of spear grass bent double by the last of the wet season rains. But the emptiness is dispelled as I pull into Broome, a frontier city located on Western Australia’s Kimberley coast. The city centre, currently undergoing a major revamp, buzzes with pedestrians. Restaurants require booking. Down on Cable Beach, cameleers are lining up their charges for sunset rides and road-trippers are driving onto the wet sand and setting up camping chairs and cracking beers as they settle in for the show of a lifetime. ....