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Singaporean street food has always been and remains kf seetoh, the guru behind the makansutra food guides and an advocate for the kind of democratic, affordable, casual chaos of the hawker world. >> li: so this is the dry one. >> anthony: thank you. >> li: thank you. enjoy. >> anthony: thank you. okay. so wet and dry? >> goh: wet and dry. when the heat gets to you, a little broth. >> anthony: 545 whampoa prawn noodles for prawn mee seemed a good place to start. >> goh: we are here because ray found this girl who served us. she's one of the new heroes, new generation heroes. >> anthony: right. ...

>> anthony: well, that's a good question. where are they going to come from? >> goh: there's a lot of insinuations of an answer, but no true answer. >> anthony: the answer is not from singapore, right? they're going to have to come in from china. >> goh: for the 15,000, or 20,000 food stalls like this we have in singapore, if it's public run like this one, you can't hire foreigners. it's meant for singaporeans. >> anthony: but isn't the beginning of all of this was people from china, india. >> goh: that's what i keep saying, our food came from the rest of the world. yeah, we had nothing. and i...

Stuff. >> anthony: but that's wrong always. >> goh: creativity is not a flavor, tony. >> anthony: most hawker stalls are family run operations, and whampoa is no exception. what's unusual is that li ruifang left her white collar job to work alongside her parents, bucking a trend that has left the hawker centers with an aging workforce, unable to replenish generations of expertise with new blood. >> goh: when you look around, tony, you look at all the hawkers, more than 70%, 80% of them are 50 and above. so the tipping point will come where everybody will give up their stall because their child...

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