In the Karrada district of Iraq’s capital, residents awake to a gas bottle deliverer’s dulcet tones — once a nationwide tradition, but now a solo act. “My heart rediscovers love, as if it learned nothing from past suffering,” croons Mountazar Abbas, in homage to famous Iraqi singer Yass Khodr. The 22-year-old is the last gas deliverer in Baghdad to announce the arrival of his cylinder-laden rickshaw by singing. In doing so, he brings smiles to customers’ faces. “When people recognize my voice, they open the door of their home and shout out to me,” Abbas said. “Others call me ...