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In an extract from his new book, Settlers: Journeys through the food, faith and culture of Black African London, restaurant critic and food writer Jimi Famurewa digs into the success and acclaim surrounding restaurants like Ikoyi, as well as how their prominence speaks to the happy contradictions that make up modern Black British lives
The Telegraph s top 25 restaurants for dining indoors this summer
There’s no substitute for the buzz of a restaurant dining room, and these are the favourites we ll be racing to visit once more
21 May 2021 • 2:43pm
Telegraph writers and chefs reveal the top restaurants they can t wait to visit now they ve reopened
Credit: Magdelen Arms; Brasserie Zédel; London Photography Company; Milo Brown
Right, where were we? Can you remind me? Ah, yes – restaurants! I remember them. Or rather, I remember what they used to be. Whether it was a big, blousy room putting on a seamless show even as it allowed the diners to take centre stage, or a self-consciously curated little space in which the punters’ intimacy with the process was essentially what made the food enjoyable, I remember the way that good (and, indeed, less good) restaurants used to make me feel: thoroughly, in-the-moment alive. Which feels like a lifetime ago, does it not?
The Telegraph s top 25 restaurants for dining indoors this summer
There’s no substitute for the buzz of a restaurant dining room, and these are the favourites we ll be racing to visit once more
17 May 2021 • 12:20pm
Telegraph writers and chefs reveal the top restaurants they can t wait to visit now they ve reopened
Credit: Magdelen Arms; Brasserie Zédel; London Photography Company; Milo Brown
Right, where were we? Can you remind me? Ah, yes – restaurants! I remember them. Or rather, I remember what they used to be. Whether it was a big, blousy room putting on a seamless show even as it allowed the diners to take centre stage, or a self-consciously curated little space in which the punters’ intimacy with the process was essentially what made the food enjoyable, I remember the way that good (and, indeed, less good) restaurants used to make me feel: thoroughly, in-the-moment alive. Which feels like a lifetime ago, does it not?