Why Do So Many Surfers Meet Untimely Deaths?
We examine risk-taking in the ocean and on land, and tr to understand why so many surfers meet untimely deaths. Is it surfing itself? Or something else?
Source: theinertia.com
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A Slow-Motion View of John John Florence's Outrageously-Large, Outer-Reef Wave on Oahu
The surf got big in the Hawaiian Islands this weekend. That might be an understatement. All the attention has been on Maui. But by the looks of it, Oahu stayed clean and beautiful. John John, Koa Rothman and Mikey Wright, among others, were apparently making good choices and staying close to home. Erik Knutson captured John John paddling into this picture-perfect wave with nary a drop of water misplaced. (It’s uncanny how much this looks like Fiji.) We’re not sure if it’s Outside Alligators, Himalayas, or a number of other outer reef locales. We do know it’s big, clean, and while h...
Source: theinertia.com