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Baku has tarted itself up with oil money, ringing a historic core with ego-architecture Credit: Getty Deep in the mountains of north-east Azerbaijan I am discussing Noah with an elderly villager. Wrapped in a headscarf and woolly hat, Malaksima, a formidable 80-something (she isn’t sure) with a weathered face like a walnut, is collecting spring water in a silver teapot. I ask about a tale that the people of Khinaliq are direct descendants of Noah. Had the Bible’s original sailor really dropped anchor on these flat summits? “Noah?” says Malaksima. She laughs. “Show me: where’s the ocean? Noah’s not even Muslim.” ....