Learning to Love Unruly Fruit
I t's a testament to Kate Lebo's curiosity, knowledge and sheer writing chops that she can spend a chapter describing a fruit called a durian as tasting like "peaches laced with onions and garbage" and smelling "a little like turpentine" yet leave you wanting to merrily try some for yourself — laughing all the way. The durian is just one of the featured foods in Lebo's new The Book of Difficult Fruit: Arguments for the Tart, Tender, and Unruly (With Recipes), and while you might not actually try her recipe for durian ice cream, there's plenty more-pleasing fruits along the way that c...