Detailed text transcripts for TV channel - DW - 20181227:06:31:00
A good distance just to go i try to leave everything that has nothing to do with surfing on the beach on a blank sheet of paper when i leave the shore going to where you will want to do and that's how my contact with the waves and ocean began was a cultural that's just a distorted this sort of i close my eyes take a deep breath come back and start to surf john i'm still going to. this bombs has been without john from the outset. he brought the old drum here for the launch of his self camp and his lip many fine isn't it since. this surfing is followed by a dip in the hot springs they're found a...
Source: archive.org