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My Mother's Kitchen Was Always Bustling. Then, Depression Hit – And Her Hunger Evaporated


I learned to artfully separate eggs and beat the whites with a fury until they stood obediently in snowy peaks, then Mum would confidently tip the bowl upside down, laughing as I held my breath – properly beaten, the peaks would stay standing without slipping from the bowl. I learned to handle pastry dough with a cool touch, running my wrists under a cold tap like Mum showed me before I began to work it. I whipped sugar and butter and sunshine yolks to a cream of such velvety lightness that the air-filled batter seemed to sigh with pleasure. 
Our kitchen sang with voices, and was always warm as the oven exhaled hot breath. We made Scotch pancakes and piled them steaming, swaddled in a clean dishcloth. We ate them spread with Tate & Lyle’s Golden syrup. (Today, I cannot consider a tin of the stuff, lid sticky on my larder shelf, without a sentimental swell.) We ate them to prove our half-Scottish heritage even as we grew up under taut, hot, high African sk ....

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