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The dark side of Australia tourists don't want to hear about


Ben Groundwater11:43, Jul 08 2021
This article was published on Australia’s traveller.com.au and is republished with permission.
Juan Walker shades his eyes from the glare of the Queensland sun as he looks out over Kuku Yalanji country, his country, his ancestors country. He sweeps his arm across the vista of Four Mile Beach, the lowlands where Port Douglas spreads, out to the hills in the far distance.
This is where his people are from, he says. Out to the mountains there. And then his voice barely changes pitch as he continues: This is where the white bounty hunters would roam. This is where they would hunt and kill the Kuku Yalanji people and carry their heads back to town to exchange for money. ....

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Mike Yardley: Port Douglas on a Plate


Mike Yardley: Port Douglas on a Plate
(Photo / Supplied)
Sat, 3 Jul 2021, 11:44AM
Tootling up the Captain Cook Highway, the turn-off to swanky Port Douglas soon beckoned. To the locals, they simply call it “Port,” a fashionable destination for visitors seeking respite from cooler climes for decades – including myself! Fortunes have waxed and waned here. Gone are the high-stakes days when dodgy Christopher Skase unveiled his flashy five-star Sheraton Mirage Resort in the head rush of the 80s’, transforming the small fishing village into a tropical playground for the rich and famous. Today, Port Douglas is like a stroppy starlet that has grown-up into a more mature and grounded luminary. She feels relaxed, upmarket and utterly comfortable in her own skin. I loved taking long walks along the divine crescent-shaped sweep of Four Mile Beach, fringed with coconut palms and decked in soft golden sands. ....

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