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A maple in April is a force to be reckoned with. The sap is flowing with a vengeance, squeezed by specialized cells that expand during the heat of day to create more pressure in a maple tree than in the inside of a car tire.
The people who make maple syrup, a hearty tribe called sugarmakers, capitalize on this pressure by drilling holes in the tree, a process known as tapping. Taps allow the tree’s pressure to push the sap, which the sugarmakers refer to as “water,” out of the tree and directly into a collection system.
Unlike most sugarmakers, David Knudson’s business, Montana Mapleworks, doesn’t have a sugarbush — that is, a stand of sugar maple trees — to call his own. Instead, he leads an itinerant sugarmaking life, scouting for maple trees and striking deals with the landowners to let him tap their trees. These benefactors include his urban neighbors; several Norway maples in the alley behind his house are, as we speak, quietly drain ....

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