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Decanter Conde de los Andes: The pursuit of elegance Promotional feature. For Rioja producer Conde de los Andes, time and the vineyard hold the key to the secret of producing unique, ageworthy wines The story of Conde de los Andes began in the 16th century, with construction of a system of underground cellars beneath the town of Ollauri in Rioja. Work continued over subsequent centuries and today these impressive cellars, known as the Calados, extend over a kilometre, with striking Moorish architecture making them an attraction for wine tourists. Originally owned by the Paternina family, a new chapter in the winery’s history began in 2014 when Julián and Javier Murúa of Bodegas Ollauri took over the business. They inherited a unique legacy: the Calados contain an extensive collection – hundreds of thousands of bottles – of old vintages. ....