.......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... ..........
Perhaps the best churro you ever had is waiting for you at Zacatlán on Aztec Street. (Molly Boyle/For the Journal)
Over the past six months, I’ve read a lot of existential hand-wringing by food writers about the future of restaurant reviewing. I’ve certainly done my share of wrestling with the contradictions of encouraging folks to try new places during quarantine.
On a recent visit, I watched my dining companion’s eyes pop wide at a sugar- and spice-encrusted bite of what he promptly named “the best churro I’ve ever had.” All remaining qualms about pandemic reviewing melted into the dipping ramekin of sweet cajeta caramel on the table.