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The longest battle of the war in Ukraine has turned Bakhmut into a ghost city. Despite bombing, shelling and trying to encircle the city since the summer, Russia’s forces have not conquered it. But their scorched-earth tactics made it impossible for civilians to have a life there. A Ukrainian soldier who arrived in the area in August saw Bakhmut gradually turned into a wasteland but says the city “has already become a symbol of Ukrainian invincibility.” Military analysts say the months of close combat have produced heavy casualties on both sides. For now, Bakhmut remains under Ukrainian control, albeit more as a fortress than the place where tourists used to sample sparkling wine.

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