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The big surf: a 1960s perspective

The most predictable beaches have either a rocky bottom, often confined by the presence of cliffs, or a coral reef which changes its shape very slowly. Sand beaches are the least consistent; their surf may be changing constantly. In the summer, the lighter, thinner waves may build up these beaches at the rate of several feet a day as the grains of sand are lifted from the bottom to be deposited by the waves in a new place. The heavy surf in winter holds the sand up much longer, and tearing down...
Kaena Point United States Trinidad Head Hilo Bay United Kingdom Waianae Range

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