February 26, 2021
Gregg SegalGetty Images When New York’s Le Bernardin reopened for indoor dining, all too briefly, this past fall, sommelier Aldo Sohm returned from a monthslong sojourn in Austria and Germany, where he had reacquainted himself with the pleasures of riesling, a white wine made from the eponymous grape. “People are so passionate about it there,” the World’s Best Sommelier of 2008 told me. The same cannot be said of Americans, however, who have been resistant to the charms of rieslings, e...