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That footage, replayed in the first episode of 100 Foot Wave, marks the understated beginning of Nazaréâs transformation into the premier destination for extreme surfing. The series, directed by Chris Smith, recounts McNamaraâs decade-long, ongoing quest to ride what would be the largest wave ever surfed (the current record, 80 feet, was set at Nazaréâs Praia do Norte by Brazilian surfer Rodrigo Koxa in November 2017). But with six hour-long installments, 100 Foot Wave is less insane highlight reel than sprawling portrait of an eccentric, meticulous, and extremely dedicated community drawn to Nazaréâs towering swells, from McNamara to his team of drivers and spotters, to the Portuguese hosts and local government sponsors, to an international scene of big-wave surfers.
“Da Bull”: Poster boy of big wave surfing dies at 84
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July 10, 2021 2.46pm
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GREG NOLL: 1937–2021
Greg Noll, who has died aged 84, became the first poster boy of big wave surfing, and in 1969 he famously surfed Hawaii’s biggest ever swell.
Nicknamed “Da Bull” for his fearlessness and stocky bodybuilder’s physique, Noll was one of a group of Californian longboarders who migrated to the North Shore of the Hawaiian island of Oahu in the 1950s in search of the perfect wave.
Surfing great Greg Noll on his deck at home that overlooks the Smith River near Crescent City.
Surf was higher than usual on O’ahu’s North Shore yesterday, but nobody was saying much about it.
Surf was higher than usual on O’ahu’s North Shore yesterday, but nobody was saying much about it.
Instead, most of the talk focused on 40- to 50-foot waves predicted for tomorrow and how a National Weather Service forecast indicating weather patterns in the Pacific resembled those in early December 1969.
Those patterns resulted in waves so mountainous that they swept away houses, boats, vehicles and even people over several days 40 years ago.
“This well could be the biggest surf in the past decade and possibly the biggest since 1969,” said Randy Rarick, executive director of the Triple Crown of Surfing.
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