photo: Andrew Sherman Sometimes, you really can drink your troubles away. Or at least some of them. For chef Dean Neff, of PinPoint restaurant in Wilmington, North Carolina, trouble came with an over-delivery of an unfamiliar ingredient. “Last year, we had buckets of local holy basil,” says the chef, who builds his menus from local farmers’ bounty. Sweet, subtly medicinal holy basil—or tulsi, a sacred herb in India—isn’t the variety you’d use for a pesto or a pasta sauce. “It smelled like bubblegum, and we weren’t quite sure what to do with it,” he says. At the same time, the former chef de cuisine at