A subtle lunch in Seoul Meet Cho Hee Sook, a quiet chef whose food has a lot to say. By Andrew Evans Globe correspondent,Updated February 9, 2021, 12:00 p.m. Email to a Friend SEOUL â Pay attention! The graceful appetizer seemed to holler from the plain white bowl, where pale pink shrimp were rolled in paper-thin lotus root, then tossed with shamrock-shaped microgreens and yuza zest. The food chided me: Put away your phone. Use your eyes. I obeyed my lunch and chewed the way people do in fancy restaurants. The translucent shrimp burst with bright flavors: sharp, cool, and fresh. The sunny taste on my tongue contrasted the looming gray city outside.