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the stakes not about drugs per se, but about the ability of ordinary colombians to live without fear. we land in the jungle outpost of miraflores in the southern province in the amazonian forest reserve. the heavy presence of army and special police is a result of its strategic location and recent history as a one-time center of coca production. farmers here would grow the stuff and make leaves into past. traffickers would come and buy it. the farc had this area under its sphere of influence for years. nine years ago, the government moved to expel the farc, the traffickers and any paramilitaries, with apparently much success.