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of miles. i wake up to the sounds of early morning village life. roosters call, the coughing and clearing of lungs as the elders rise to perform their morning chores. the whole village lives here in separate apartments, sharing a communal space that runs the length of the building. some things have noticeably changed. the longhouse i first stayed in has been replaced by a somewhat more modern version. these days, there's electricity from a reliable diesel generator. and while there's no cell phone signal, the plumbing works, though washing in the river is still, the way i see it anyway, the preferable option. ♪ ♪ in this part of the world you live or die by the rice harvest. less so, these days, as timbering has changed, well,

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