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for the incredible din that's generated heaving these enormous bells around. i'm trying not to use my knees but it's almost impossible. they feel battered and bruised already. we're greeted by a huge crowd of tourists and locals. hans�* son dominik is the flamboyant leader, rousing the troops, leading the beat... and conducting the cacophony. luckily for me, after half—an—hour, dominik calls time for a much—needed break.