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in a darker direction. in chita, they're preparing for the ice festival. no santas with reindeers. this year, it's soldiers with kalashnikovs, a whole army of them. cold war to glorify the hot war russia's waging in ukraine. "we're fighting a war," tatyana says. "so it's right to have these ice soldiers here." ludmilla agrees. "we're defending our country from nazis," she tells me. "russia's being attacked on all fronts, including "with lg bt propaganda. we reject these alien values." russians never used to say these kind of things to me. kremlin messaging has convinced many here that russia is in an existential battle with the west. when it's 26 degrees below zero, as it is now,