Country Life Trending: Credit: Universal Images Group via Getty Victorian received wisdom that fresh air is good for you turned out to be true, says Jason Goodwin. It was the custom, in my dim and distant childhood, for adult relatives to pinch me enthusiastically before we were introduced to strangers. ‘Put some colour into your cheeks,’ they’d say, before leaning back to consider the results. ‘That’s better.’ Of course, they were quite right. No one much wants to meet the sallow, drooping Colin. Everyone wants Dickon, ruddy, glowing and with perhaps a plover’s nest concealed under his jumper.