There were chimpanzees all over the fig tree like fat brown fruit ripe for the picking. They were eating, arguing, posturing, playing and one couple, unconcerned by a cluster of admiring youngsters, were fucking. Bits of discarded fig and the occasional scat or stream of pee were raining down. Given the massive spread of the tree’s branches and the closeness of the surrounding forest, it was hard both to see the chimps and avoid being splodged. I had hiked to the huge fig tree at the heart of the Kibale Forest in Uganda with a guide and a small group of primate enthusiasts. We stared at the