early morning in yangon. among the crush of commuters, shoppers, people trying to make a living rise up the last remnants of empire. faded, often crumbling, but still there after all of these years. these are the offices, businesses, and public buildings of the british colonials. this building was once one of the finest department stores in rangoon. a century ago in kipling's people, mandolay was beckoning the young british citizens, here you could buy liquor and cigars,