Page 6 - Albee Layer News Today : Breaking News, Live Updates & Top Stories | Vimarsana

Derek Dunfee is now part of a growing chorus warning of brain injuries in the sport

Bull riding and rushing giant surf? Not so different, turns out.

The Valley Isle is a volcanic utopia of wind, sea, and some of the most diversely talented surfers on Earth.

The Dangers of Surfing Big Waves and Brain Injuries How often are surfers getting concussed...or worse? Tom Dosland. Photo: Fred Pompermayer Dashel Pierson Link copied to clipboard At a remote surf spot in northern California, Shawn Dollar was in trouble. It was 2015 and Dollar was surfing alone. When a large set steamrolled his way, he stood on his board for a few feet of extra leverage, and dove beneath the whitewash. But, as he broke the surface, he went head-first into a shallow rock. His neck was broken; his brain, scrambled.     “The real problem was, which I found out later, that a...

Editor’s Note: posted last week. First off, let it be known that I’m not saying surfing leashless isn’t dumb, because for plenty of reasons, it is. It just isn’t not-wearing-a-mask-in-the-middle-of-a-pandemic dumb, as some might suggest. Here’s the dirty little secret about wearing a leash – in many ways, it can be less safe than not wearing a leash, even and especially in the crowded lineup that supposedly is anathema to the leashless. Confused? Read on. My main complaint with leashes is that they teach you that it’s ok to mostly lose control of your board. By mostly lose co...