The Dangers of Surfing Big Waves and Brain Injuries
The Dangers of Surfing Big Waves and Brain Injuries How often are surfers getting concussed...or worse? Tom Dosland. Photo: Fred Pompermayer Dashel Pierson Link copied to clipboard At a remote surf spot in northern California, Shawn Dollar was in trouble. It was 2015 and Dollar was surfing alone. When a large set steamrolled his way, he stood on his board for a few feet of extra leverage, and dove beneath the whitewash. But, as he broke the surface, he went head-first into a shallow rock. His neck was broken; his brain, scrambled. “The real problem was, which I found out later, that a...