Jordy Smith – St Francis Chronicle
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Cantkeepmedown recently posted some footage of Bruce Irons surfing Hawaii and Tahiti from 2007 to 2013, and it’s a pleasure to go back and see the man work.
We examine risk-taking in the ocean and on land, and tr to understand why so many surfers meet untimely deaths. Is it surfing itself? Or something else?
The ...lost label was still an up-and-coming operation from Biolos , just barely creeping into his mid-20s when he saw a clip of Tom Curren on a kneeboard.