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Disappearing, much to our chagrin. >> i work super hard as being an excellent dining companion. >> when seeking excellence in a dining companion, what qualities does one look for? >> i turn my phone off. you know? i never put my elbows on the table. >> really? >> of course! >> come prepared with stories. don't drink too much, don't become sloppy. >> come prepared with anecdotes? >> absolutely. >> no elbows on the table? >> no, it's not proper. >> i'm a total failure as a dining companion. what is that? what's that, you ask? an iconic classic of gastronomy? oh, look at that sauce. holy crap. th...

One, but some things french have stayed firm, unbowed, resiliently unchanged by trends or history. the continental is the kind of place about which i am unreservedly sentimental. >> when i was younger, i ate here with my parents and my grandparents. >> in 1956. >> classic, unironic cuisine a la siene, meaning dishes you haven't seen since, like, forever, a hipster-free zone of classics, such as caesar salad, tossed fresh to order, tableside, and beef tartar, also prepared tableside, as one must. shrimp cocktail not deconstructed, a shrimp cocktail, the way jesus wants you to eat them, all serv...

In culinary school, we were taught this. i mean, real customers is your final class. we had to do the field of fruits tableside and all that, which would inevitably fly off the fork and land in somebody's soup. i was so bad at it. i would start with the orange, run into trouble, i'll be right back, behind the screen with my teeth, stripping the thing. at least once a day one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire. the sterno would spill, and there would be this line from the thing down across the floor up their leg. no, that doesn't happen here. like i said, professional...

>> i work super hard at being an excellent dining companion. >> when seeking excellence in a dining companion, what qualities does one look for? >> i turn my phone off. you know? i never put my elbows on the table. >> really? >> of course! >> come prepared with stories. don't drink too much, don't become sloppy. >> come prepared with anecdotes? >> absolutely. >> no elbows on the table? >> no, it's not proper. >> i'm a total failure as a dining companion. what is that? what's that, you ask? an iconic classic of gastronomy? oh, look at that sauce. holy crap. the devilishly difficult boneless wil...

One, but some things french have stayed firm, unbowed, resiliently unchanged by trends or history. the continental is the kind of place about which i am unreservedly sentimental. >> when i was younger, i ate here with my parents and my grandparents. >> in 1956. >> classic, unironic cuisine a la siene, meaning dishes you haven't seen since, like, forever, a hipster-free zone of classics, such as caesar salad, tossed fresh to order, tableside, and beef tartar, also prepared tableside, as one must. shrimp cocktail not deconstructed, a shrimp cocktail, the way jesus wants you to eat them, all serv...