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Resiliently unchanged by trends or history. the continental is the kind of place about which i am unreservedly sentimental. >> when i was younger, i ate here with my parents and my grandparents. >> in 1956. >> classic, unironic cuisine a la siene, meaning dishes you haven't seen since, like, forever, a hipster-free zone of classics, such as caesar salad, tossed fresh to order, tableside, and beef tartar, also prepared tableside, as one must. shrimp cocktail not deconstructed, a shrimp cocktail, the way jesus wants you to eat them, all served by a dedicated professional. in culinary school, we ...

Final class. we had to do the field of fruits tableside and all that, which would inevitably fly off the fork and land in somebody's soup. i was so bad at it. i would start with the orange, run into trouble, i'll be right back, behind the screen with my teeth, stripping the thing. at least once a day one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire. the sterno would spill, and there would be this line from the thing down across the floor up their leg. no, that shit doesn't happen here. like i said, professionals. >> this is going to go like a big fireball. >> fireball, good. t...

Become sloppy. >> come prepared with anecdotes? >> absolutely. >> no elbows on the table? >> no, it's not proper. >> i'm a total failure as a dining companion. what is that? what's that, you ask? an iconic classic of gastronomy? oh, look at that sauce. holy crap. the devilishly difficult boneless wild hair in the sauce of its own blood, a generous heaping of black fresh truffle garnished with thick slabs of foie gras, seared directly on the top of the cabin's woodstove. >> oh, damn, look at that. >> we're in a wooden shack, over 3 feet of ice, over 100 feet of water. >> you are hopeless romant...

I would start with the orange, run into trouble, i'll be right back, behind the screen i'm stripping the thing with my teeth. at least once a day one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire. the sterno would spill, and there would be this line from the thing down up their leg. no, that doesn't happen here. like i said, professional. >> this is going to go like a big fireball? >> good. >> the kind who know how to properly prepare these dishes. >> sweet. >> like a goosebump moment. >> yeah. >> for dave, another classic, filet de boeuf. a sauce made of cognac, cream and glac...

>> it's going to be too much truffle. >> my blood is getting thicker as i look at that. >> now the main course, a home grown smoked right out front local ham, with pineapple and green beans almandine. and with chicken, but with martin, chicken is never just chicken. >> stuffed with foie gras and lobster. we pump lobster bisque into the chicken. >> good god. there is a light at the end of the tunnel. >> oh. >> someone should be singing the national anthem now, really. >> in practically prehistoric old-schooled canadian classic, maple syrup is heated, then poured on snow, making a kind of taffy,...