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    Today, we left Bursa and drove to İznik, which may not sound familiar to many but which was an important city in early Christian history.

These are unusual times, and the state of affairs can change quickly. Please check the latest travel guidance before making your journey. Note that our writer visited pre-pandemic. Istanbul has a population of over 15 million, and half of them seem to descend on Beyoğlu and neighbouring districts on Friday and Saturday evenings in search of a good time. You really will find everything here from hip rooftop bars and raucous indie clubs to basement jazz cafés and grungy rock bars, as well as traditional Turkish folk venues and über-cool dance clubs. This area is Istanbul’s good...