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Destinations like Paris and Rome tend to get all the credit when it comes to romance — but Istanbul should not be overlooked as a love-fueled city.

Kadıköy in particular is a great spot to drop your bags if you’re hoping to get a taste of the more neighborly and trendy aspects of Istanbul.

The author celebrates new open spaces along the Golden Horn, and picks the best places to eat, shop and be inspired by the city’s rich history

These are unusual times, and the state of affairs can change quickly. Please check the latest travel guidance before making your journey. Note that our writer visited pre-pandemic. Istanbul has a population of over 15 million, and half of them seem to descend on Beyoğlu and neighbouring districts on Friday and Saturday evenings in search of a good time. You really will find everything here from hip rooftop bars and raucous indie clubs to basement jazz cafés and grungy rock bars, as well as traditional Turkish folk venues and über-cool dance clubs. This area is Istanbul’s good...