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On the first floor of a two-story house along Mexico City’s plush Avenida Amsterdam sits Merkava: Hummus and Jerusalem Kitchen. The sign over the blue-and-white exterior is scrawled in a swoopy font emblematic of Hebrew letters; inside, the restaurant’s back wall is made of golden Jerusalem stone. For most residents in Condesa, the chic Mexico City neighborhood where Merkava is located, the restaurant’s look and its menu of Jewish classics like chicken fried in its own fat, or schmaltz, and chopped liver with egg doesn’t signify much; a few may recognize the trends of modern Jewish deli fare and upscale Israeli cooking that are sweeping the globe. But for those who know, the distinctly Jewish bent of Merkava harks back to a different time in Condesa’s history. ....