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My walk heads upstream from Cowan Bridge beside Leck Beck into Ease Gill, where disappearing streams, dry ravines and mysterious holes hint of the nether world. Begging indulgence, I’d sneak over the county boundary onto Crag Hill and Great Coum for grand views over Barbondale and Dentdale before an easy lope past the County Stone onto Gragareth. The quick way down is via the Three Men of Gragareth, an imposing group of sentinel cairns, and Leck Fell House, but a more strenuous descent is to Masongill and back on field paths and lanes. Either way it’s a grand horseshoe. ....