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Italian sort of way, and so you can get lost. >> anthony: roast bone marrow with parsley and caper salad, sourdough bread, made here. a dish that would become absolutely iconic. if you've ever eaten bone marrow anywhere, it's very likely because they did it here first. my dinner companion is food critic and author jay rayner, a man never with a shortage of opinions. >> jay: bones. >> anthony: thank you, yes. >> fergus: salt. and there you go, give it your all. >> anthony: that's a simple good thing, but is -- it's one of the most influential dishes, like, in the last 20 years. >> jay: it's a g...

And that i think was kind of the magic of it. >> anthony: it was sweet, sweet memories of this stegosaurus-sized shank of cured pork, boiled and boiled until it literally falls away from the bone steaming and moist. this symphony of meat and gelatin and good, good stuff. god is hiding in there, somewhere. >> anthony: some things just shouldn't change. i come here to feed my soul. it's the antidote to every other place. >> anthony: roast bone marrow with parsley and caper salad. >> anthony: thank you, yes. it's a simple, good thing, but it's one of the most influential dishes in the last 20 yea...

Bone steaming and moist. this symphony of meat and gelatin and good, good stuff. god is hiding in there, somewhere. >> anthony: some things just shouldn't change. i come here to feed my soul. it's the antidote to every other place. >> anthony: roast bone marrow with parsley and caper salad. >> anthony: thank you, yes. it's a simple, good thing, but it's one of the most influential dishes in the last 20 years. as i become older, the food that i yearn for is food that i react to in an entirely emotional way. oh, man, wow. now is there an appropriate way to attack this? does one go straight in or...

What it tasted like. or smelled like, or what it evoked in him. and that i think was kind of the magic of it. >> it was sweet, sweet memories of this shank of cured pork boiled and boiled until it literally falls away from the bone, steaming and moist. the symphony of meat and gelatin and good, good stuff. god is hiding in there somewhere. >> some things just shouldn't change. >> i'm here to feed myself. roast bone marrow with parsley and caper salad. >> thank you, yes. it's say simple good thing, but one of the most influential dishes like in the last 20 years. as i become older, i've notic...

The plate speaking for itself in that classic italian sort of way, so you can get lost. >> roast bone marrow with parsley and caper salad, sour dough bread made here, a dish that would be absolutely iconic. if you've ever eaten bone marrow anywhere, it's likely because they did it here first. my critic companion food author, a man never short of opinions. >> it's a simple good thing. if one of us -- like in the last 20 years, it's a good thing. you see his imprint everywhere. >> it's true. once the esthetic gets passed down in ways you don't expect. >> yeah. as i've become older, i notice the ...