Proudly holding up a plump porcini, Pio says: "For your salad tonight, a mushroom from the woods." I lean in for a sniff. It's a beauty; a chunky hunk of leathery, earthy goodness. And if last night's dinner was anything to go by, I've no doubt Pio will have transformed it into a work of art by the time it reaches my plate. Pio Catemario Di Quadri is chef at Locanda on the Weir, a boutique hotel in Porlock Weir, a tiny harbour hamlet on the edge of Exmoor National Park, West Somerset, which he runs with his partner Cindy Siu. He usually does set menus - featuring dishes flavoured by both his ...